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Procharger F-1 rebuild.

 
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:54 pm    Post subject: Procharger F-1 rebuild. Reply with quote

A few years back I was making a pass at Darlington and hit the rev limiter right at the stripe. For some reason it caused a pretty big backfire. It sounded different idling back in the pits and I assumed it had hurt a thrust bearing. On our new race car project I'm going to run it instead of the turbos so it's time to see what happened and fix it. There is some information around on disassembly of Prochargers but I didn't see anything on the F series so I'm going to document rebuilding mine. Give me a week or two to finish it.
First step is obviously remove the pulley, remove the screws holding the case halves together and split the case. There are two dowel pins to maintain alignment so the halves must stay parallel as they come apart. I used a rubber mallet to break them loose then wiggled them apart once they seperated. This is what you'll see at this point.



I really didn't expect it to be this nasty inside being a self contained unit. I've got everything apart and cleaned up so it'll be easier to see what's going on. More later.

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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that is a bit toasty looking. Once oil gets above 240 it starts the down hill slide to totally falling apart and oxidizing into the sludge you see forming here. Might be actually better to use a force feed from the engine oil to get it flushed out every now and then. Inconvenient, but I think it is a better system than the self contained one if it is going to fail after a short term (how long was that unit warranted; one oil change worth?).

I hope you are using precision ball bearings and not normal tolerance bearings as at the speeds that thin rotate (30,000 RPM) it has to have a very tight tolerance and a means of shedding heat. The ball actually deforms like a tire side wall under load and the larger surface area of the ball that spins as it rolls always brings a new contact patch while the former patch sheds heat to the lubricant.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Super-Precision-Bearings-for-Machine-Tool-Applications-Catalog.pdf

Big Dave
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10sec.et
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that looks like the inside of a friggin clock. i dont remember my vortech having that much stuff inside (yes, i know its not a vortech Wink). did you get the impeller off yet? i would like to see pics of that too.
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave - I'm guessing it has 3000 miles give or take. That was probably over a 3 year period maybe so no warranty on time alone. I'm not 100% sure on either. As far as what type of oil Procharger uses I really don't know. I did the first oil change after a few hundred miles as recommended and I remember it was pretty nasty. Seems like I remember it stayed cleaner after that. 30,000 rpm isn't even getting warmed up good - impeller max is 70,000 on this unit. The bearings are class 7. On the output shaft there is an angular contact bearing inside a larger ball bearing. Theoretically I'm guessing each bearing sees 1/2 the total rpm. Thought about ceramic bearings but the ones on the output shaft look and feel great. The backfire took out the bearing on the input shaft closest to the pulley which I didn't expect.

10sec.et - Yeah I did get the impeller off. What had to happen is I had to stop caring if I was going to hurt anything and GET ON IT. I put it in the press and put a few tons of pressure on it. Then I heated the impeller up with a heat gun to around 120*. Still wouldn't move so I put a nylon block on top of the press crossbar and whacked it with a big hammer. It broke loose and I could press it once it moved. I'll get plenty of pictures next week. Gotta get the Nova ready tomorrow - going to go to the track Saturday with the N / A 383 and see what it'll do. Then on Sunday my daughter and I are going to Charlotte for the 4 wide race.

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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I finally got some time to get this thing back together. Here are some pics. First step is I installed the input shaft and output shaft seals.


The input is straight forward enough. The replacement seal didn't have a very good press fit so I put a thin layer of Permatex on it. The output has an oring behind it to help seal it I assume. I've never seen that before. Anyway press it in and it has a snap ring to hold it in also.

Next I started installing the output shaft. I'm not sure which Procharger models use this duplex bearing but for sure a F-1 does. First I pressed the angular contact bearing in the aluminum sleeve that is between the bearings. Then I pressed the output shaft in.


Then install the angular contact / sleeve / shaft assembly into the large ball bearing. Mine was a light slip fit and I could pull it together by hand.

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nice! i wish i had taken pics and started a thread when i did my Vortech.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To install the output shaft through the seal I made this tapered sleeve since the seal lip is very stiff.



Now here is where assembly gets interesting. The impeller is not only pressed on the output shaft but it also has 2 1/8" dowel pins locking it to the shaft. However the grooves for the pins aren't all the way through the impeller bore so getting them lined up with the grooves in the shaft is a problem. This was my solution. This guide bolts to the output shaft and
is a clearance fit in the impeller bore and has 2 grooves to line up with the dowel grooves in the shaft.


Then I used 2 pins to line the grooves up in the shaft with the guide and tighten the bolt up.


Output shaft assembly ready to install.

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Output shaft assembly installed in the case. One added note that might help to avoid some confusion especially during disassembly. You can see a hole at about 7 o'clock with a hex in it. There is another at about 11 o'clock and at 3 o'clock. These have nothing to do with holding anything together. They are 1/8" pipe plugs. You can see where they go through in the previous picture when I showed the output shaft seal installation.



After shaft assembly is in the case install this spacer before you press the impeller on. You can see the other side of the pipe plugs here also.



Here the impeller is slid onto the installation guide and you can see the dowel holes.



Then I slid 2 alignment pins into the dowel holes before I started pressing.



Last aggravating problem is how to press on the impeller with all this alignment crap in the way. This custom sleeve allows the alignment sleeve and pins to come up through it.





FINALLY ready to press the impeller on.



Installed with the actual dowels and the bolt / washer ( loctite of course).


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