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408 Fuel System
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SMOKEmUP
PostMaster


Joined: 30 May 2002
Posts: 3169

65097.54 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good.
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It is getting crowed. Fuel lines off the rails are going to be tough to make routing look good. Have not decided where to put the regulator. Either the drivers head or loop the front of the rails with 180 connectors and put it back on the firewall near the Y-Block. If I had coil on plug I could get rid of the MSD box and coil which would make room for these things a lot easier. Just no $$. Opinions welcome.
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2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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SMOKEmUP
PostMaster


Joined: 30 May 2002
Posts: 3169

65097.54 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about picking up a set of used LS coils?
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SMOKEmUP wrote:
What about picking up a set of used LS coils?

That would be part of it yes. Mounts for the coils wouldn't be that bad. The crank trigger and cam sensor distributor are the other 2 parts of it which up the ante a bit.

I did see a setup where you place a magnet in the Jesel upper pulley and use a standard mag pickup to act a a cam sensor. This could be slick.

_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

holy crap! i must have missed your last few posts on this. that looks great! how much horsepower are you trying to make? what fuel pump do you have? you dont need to put the regulator up front. i usually put them by the tank and run a single 3/8 line to the front. i would do that and leave the ignition alone.
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Keith,
Fuel pump is an Aeromotive A1000 pump and filters. Using all the existing lines and the whole thing is plummed up to the engine already with 1/2" main and return lines. Regulator will be up front for easy viewing and adjustment of the fuel pressure. I have some T6 plate that I will make a mount out of for it. Following the Holley recommendations to use parallel fuel rail feeds at this horsepower level, I will use a Y-block and split 8AN lines to each rail and then back together at the regulator with a return out of it to the existing return line. The motor should make around 675HP by all the numbers. The coil pack setup is tempting but still a future mod at this point.

_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi


Last edited by Paul P on Sun Mar 06, 2016 9:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another option is to put the regulator on the return line in the back . doesnt sound like you want to climb under the car to set pressure though. however, once its set, its done. its tricky getting all that stuff under the hood without it looking like some weird science project. keep the pics coming Cool
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah science project is a nice way to put it. Trying my best to keep it presentable. The coolant lines add a bit of complexity for sure. I will be fabbing up a mount for both the y-block and regulator and then buying the last of the full flow AN fittings I need. All the Bonaco fittings I had on the car have a lip inside so there is a big difference between the old stuff and newer stuff flow wise. Just sucks at $10-20 each.
_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's plumbed! Working on the harness and wiring in general which is almost finished.
More pics to follow.

_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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10sec.et
Member


Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good job! i like how you did the return. btw, set your pressure to 60 psi.
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.

Funny story here about the state of the install in general. I have not fired it up is the access to the distributor clamp bolt has changed with the fuel rail in the way. I need to get a 7/16" Chrysler slant 6 distributor wrench to reach it and tighten it down. Rolling Eyes

I have wired it and fired up the ECU to program it. The base map I used was for a 650HP 496 which I then adjusted for my displacement, trigger type and O2 sensor. I still have to pull the configuration from the ECU before plugging in the O2 since they say if it isn't configured I could risk damaging it.

60psi? really necessary? These injectors are oversized for 1050HP 66lb/hr@43psi.


Paul

_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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10sec.et
Member


Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its more efficient at higher pressure. if 43 is enough then its enough. i used to run our 500hp builds at 48 but started running them at 60 because of recommendations from other tuners. ive noticed better driveability on some. see what yours likes. dont be afraid to experiment with different pressure if you end up battling weird stuff in the tune.
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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10sec.et
Member


Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul P wrote:
I need to get a 7/16" Chrysler slant 6 distributor wrench to reach it and tighten it down. Rolling Eyes


Paul


Laughing the fact that most of us here know what that is shows how old we are

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Paul P
Member


Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

True. I ended up cutting the 9/16" end off of my old craftsman distributor wrench and welding on the end of the 7/16" wrench that I used to use before the fuel rail was in the way. All set distributor tight.

I did pull the setup from the ECU to verify it was what I loaded. It was good to go. I put fuel in it and there were some leaks on the feed line under the trunk floor to the first filter. Tightened up no problem.

Now the next one was a bitch. What was leaking up front was the Summit Y-block. The 1/8NPT fitting was leaking. Turns out it was loose and made of aluminum. Tightened it a 1/4 turn and it still leaked. Tried to back it out and it galled immediately. Had to pull it completely off and drill it out. What also was happening when I pulled it was then main fuel line was siphoning fuel from the tank because it is on jack stands. Found a plastic cap for it but man what the hell else can happen at the same time? Once it was out tapping it a bit deeper was the only solution to fix the threads. Ended up using a brass plug from the regulator that I had pulled for the gauge. So I put the Y-block back in and check for leaks again. All good.

Then I take a look at the fuel pressure. It was over 100 psi!!! Holley regulator adjustment was way off. I was able to back it down to like 45psi.

Now that the leaks are good I have the O2 sensor staying in init in the software display o the laptop which they say is low battery voltage in some posts i found. I am not too sure about that but I had to give up it is late. Looks like I might be able to fire it tomorrow.

_________________
2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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Big Dave
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Joined: 04 Dec 2005
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Location: Tampa Florida
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck. I think I would have Heli-Coiled the Y block while it was apart. Cast aluminum is far too soft for that use not to mention frequently porous at a microscopic level. Fuel has a lower viscosity than water and portions of the lighter compounds can migrate through cast aluminum.

I sent (or attempted to through AOL ) those pictures of naked car engines you asked for.

Big Dave
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