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Mustang Clutch Cable Length

 
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 2:51 pm    Post subject: Mustang Clutch Cable Length Reply with quote

I'm helping a local guy straighten out a little mess another hot rod shop started. Its a fox body Mustang with a single turbo setup. Right now the main problem I'm working on it the clutch cable. As he drives it the cable gets hot and evidently the outer sheath shrinks until it grips the inner cable and then it won't disengage. It has had several cables on it and currently it has 2 layers of heat wrap on it. I really can't see how it's getting that hot - it's probably 2 inches away from one header tube and about the same where it gets near the crossover. There is even a wire bundle beside it that isn't heat wrapped and the insulation is fine. However to eliminate the heat issue does anybody know if I can get custom length clutch cables made. If I could add 18" or so and make a longer loop basically then I could go in front of everything, get away from the crossover and closer to the fan. I've searched on the net but haven't come across anything yet. Thanks, Clay
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2393
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81240.86 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something is wrong there. The cable should to be affected that much by heat and the wiring next to it is not affected. Steeda makes a nice cable on American muscle for $45.00. Do you know who makes what he has in there?

You could go hydraulic and be done with it. only $699.00

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-9604.html

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 on the hydraulic. i know its a crapload more work and a bit pricey but, you wont be welding another piece of steel in the firewall when the cable setup causes it to crack. i bet its already starting to crack.

hell, youre a creative guy. if cost is an issue, you could probably fab up a bracket and run an external slave. that way you dont have to pull the trans and shim everything for the internal slave.

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what brand of cable is on there and he doesn't know either - he never really asks questions when the other shop does work on it - which is kinda aggravating since I don't have much history on what has been going on. I agree that I can't really see that much heat being on it. I agree on the firewall too - when my buddy was in the car pushing the clutch while I was looking around it was spooky and I said we have to fix this quick or it will tear the firewall apart. The hydraulic conversion it an idea I didn't think of - I'll look into that more if I have to. How about adapting a shifter cable? They list 600 lbs. pull strength and they can be had in about any length I would need. That would be cheaper for him and I REALLY don't want to pull the transmission to do anything. Thanks, Clay
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89Gmcsierra
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Location: Hazleton, Iowa
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brothers Mercury Capri we had that issue. we ended up braking a piece of sheet metal and tack welding it to the body and just that being a heat shield never had an issue with clutch till that gay clutch quadrant broke. "cheap 2 piece plastic adjuster under dash. fixed that and shelled the 3rd T5 in it after that C4 auto and no issues since lol.
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William Jones
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Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 820
Location: Lake city, FL
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My expierence with this problem wasnt the cables its the throwout bearing retainer they get gawled up then it puts alot of stress on the cable and causes them to collapse after awhile. I make it a habit now to replace them when doing a clutch job.

Bam

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Supposedly it is a new clutch in it. I don't know what type or brand and I'm betting the owner doesn't either but the story is it was upgraded when the second engine got put in - so hopefully everything is new. The first engine had an oil pan failure shortly after the turbo kit went on. I don't have the car here yet - I stopped by his house to look at an exhaust issue he has that I have to fix. I've got the interior out of my wife's car now so I'll get it here in about 2 weeks and then I'll take some pictures of the cable routing and I can give some more specifics. I know it already has the adjuster in the firewall so I'm thinking the quadrant has already been upgraded. Thanks for the ideas so far. Clay
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William Jones
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Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 820
Location: Lake city, FL
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The retainer is the shaft the bearing slides on and they rarley change them when doing clutch replacement then they add a heavy clucth and new bearing and digs into the retainer shaft and makes the pedal hard to depress most people think its because of the heavy clutch when actually its because bearing is digging into the shaft.

Bam

_________________
Take the horse out off the barn and let her RUN BABY RUN!!!!!

92 LX 454ci Clevor 9.24@142.53 N/A
71 Mach1 454ci Clevor 10.16@134 N/A 3850lbs race weight "Lost in fire"
03 Cobra Bone stock 12.42
68 Falcon 363ci 10.55@126 N/A
95 GT 363ci 11.08@118 N/A
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha! Now I know exactly the part you're talking about. I'll check it out. Thanks, Clay
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