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aharris05
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Joined: 07 Sep 2011
Posts: 34

1444.66 points


1968 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have considered the shocks too. Maybe the adjustable ones from summit would be good? And I have a "new" set of front coils to put in this winter as well.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a set of those shocks and I would advise you to leave them alone. When trying to adjust them it was very hard to tell when the adjuster was engaged and I never could tell any difference between the settings. I ran the 3 way Competition Engineering shocks for years and they seemed to be pretty good for the money. The shocks I have now are Calvert Racing 90 / 10's non adjustable and they cost about the same as the CE shocks and I'll say they are a slick shock and it's what I would run. I know they warn to not use them on a public highway but heck if I know why. I can't see any real bad effects from them. I do still have the factory sway bar which I highly recommend you leave on. It makes it sooo much easier to recover if it gets out of shape. As for springs - I ran Moroso trick springs for years but be prepared to replace them after several years - they have a tendency to sag slowly over time. I got my shocks and springs from Moneymakerracing.net. They mainly do Ford stuff but each time I've called them I can't say enough about their support - a small business but very good and prices good as anywhere. Clay
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aharris05
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Joined: 07 Sep 2011
Posts: 34

1444.66 points


1968 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I added Moneymaker to my favorites, I'll be sure to call them first. Can you explain the benefits of the trick springs over stock?
I currently have the stock springs, which I cut down to lower the front 1.5 inches because I liked the look. I have another set that are supposed to be stock small block springs, but they were a little taller than even the originals before I cut 'em. (theres 1 more coil than the old ones) The front of the car hardly moves on launch, and even with the mini-spool I started to get some wheel hop. So I am hoping that the caltrac/posi/stiff springs & front drag shocks can give it the weight tranfer to plant the back tires and reduce the 60 ft times.



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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

every car is different. you should try your stock springs first. i tried the trick springs and they created more problems than they solved.
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2393
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81240.86 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
every car is different. you should try your stock springs first. i tried the trick springs and they created more problems than they solved.


Perfect example of every car is different: I use the trick springs and have had no issues. It lowered the car to the stock ride height with the big tires. I could not ask for more they work great! thumbsup
Basically change 1 thing at a time and make notes!

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my theory on why trick springs work or any sping that uses the same concept. I think most people (including me) like the front end a little lower than stock so they cut a coil to a coil and a half off that spring to get the desired ride height. By cutting this already stiffer spring we have now made it even stiffer. However as the front end lifts it gives a hard push initially but the push it gives drops off as the front end stretches out. A trick style sping has a smaller wire diameter or a different material to allow it to go in without any cutting and be a taller spring that when installed still gives you the correct ride height so it is compressed much more. Now it has the ability to provide a more even push through the entire stroke of the a-arm. Now this is just my theory and I might be out in left field on this one. As for the front end, it should be pretty loose. You should be able to grab the bumper and bounce the car several inches without much difficulty. Mine was very stiff initially and I couldn't move it more than an inch. Since you have the springs if money is tight I would look at your bushings and shocks for now. It's not that bad to change springs later. Clay
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clay is correct.

The trick spring is basically the old racer's trick of finding a used six cylinder A/C car spring.

The six cylinder spring is wound of a thinner gauge wire and has a taller free height than a SBC spring which is shorter, but wound with a thicker wire. The BBC spring is the same height as the SBC spring but has even thicker wire to counter act the added 220 pounds over the nose of the car.

The problem with many "Trick" aftermarket racing springs (and the reason they are marked racing only) is that they can go into coil bind on compression. After a few hard wheel stands the springs will bend or break which is another good reason to have wheelie bars on your trailered drag car. On the street you are miles ahead (in terms of longevity) to use the six cylinder spring over the "trick" aftermarket spring.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just took a quick video to show what I'm describing about the front end being loose. Before I went through it and changed shocks and most importantly the control arm bushings (don't use the PST polyurethane bushing by the way) I could barely move it an inch. This is with shocks and sway bar hooked up. Clay

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

at the end of the day, your car and 60" times will tell you what suspension combo you need. there wont be a "magic bullet" to getting it perfect the first time. all good advise here. you just need to get something out to the track and verify results Burn Out .
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I agree, I'm only pointing out some things that should help but no doubt you have to go to the track and test, test, test. Also, never be afraid to try stuff, even if it contradicts the "norm". I've been proven wrong before and I'm sure it'll happen again. Clay
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