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P1345 Help 98 suburban 5.7
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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 3:33 am    Post subject: P1345 Help 98 suburban 5.7 Reply with quote

Hello and thank you for reading. I recently purchased a non op 98 suburban c1500 5.7 rear wheel drive auto trans. It now starts and runs not so good. Idle Rpm's about 1700. I have done everything I can think of to clear this code; replaced timing set, valve adjustment, new rotor and cap, wire set, plugs, new cam sensor, new crank sensor (get voltage between sensor + & - terminals on both sensor connectors) and yes everything was installed properly and this is no where near my first valve adjustment or timing job. Does anyone have any ideas that could help it would be much appreciated. If you need more information please feel free to ask.

Also when i check ignition timing with scanner it reads around 19 deg advanced and turning the distributor does nothing. It is supposed to be + or - 2 deg from 0.
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SMOKEmUP
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Joined: 30 May 2002
Posts: 3169

65093.54 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you covered all the bases. Have you tried setting the timing by ear to see if the engine likes it or not? Maybe the timing set is a tooth off. Or the ignition wires are routed incorrectly.

The only other thing I can think of is the wiring to the distributor and/or the computer itself.

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that code is for cam/crank correlation error. basically, your timing is off. its either from someone moving the distributor or the gear is worn out. also seen broken dist housings. you have to cycle the key and look at your timing again on the scanner. it will not change while you watch it. once you get your timing within +/- 5degrees or so, the PCM should clear the code on its own.

the PCM uses cam/crank correlation for misfire diagnostics. i have turned that off on a couple cars. as long as you dont have to worry about emissions, you can get away without doing the crank learn.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i set the timing by ear there will be no change until it starts to choke its self out. the timing is dead on between crank and cam. Is there relays or fuses on the signal wires of the cam or crank sensors? Another thing I forgot to mention is that it does not show rpm on instrument cluster all the time but i can always check with scan tool. mainly start up.

10sec. so you think the distributor its self could be the culprit?
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seen a LOT of worn distributor gears. GM had a bad lot of them back in the late 90s.

if no one has agressively cleaned the back of the intake and distributor, there will be a yellow line across the distributor housing and intake. that is dead on for the distributor. i guess its something done at the factory since it looks like just a swipe from a yellow paint pen. if you look with a morror and flash light, you should be able to see it. if its still there, you can remove/install the distributor and not worry about the timing getting screwed up.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the great information. I will check into this later tonight when it cools off and i feel like working on the Suburban. I will get back with any updates and thank you guys again. I am much more of a mechanical person than an electrical person Ill take carbureted over fuel injected any day.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_B@LLz wrote:
I am much more of a mechanical person than an electrical person Ill take carbureted over fuel injected any day.


funny, i had to adjust a choke the other day and one of the "kids" at work asked what i was doing. when he saw it was a carb, he said never mind, i dont know anything about those. so, i told him i had to lean out the open loop fuel table and decrease desired airflow at idle. he said, oh, it was too fat and idling high .......... Rolling Eyes Laughing .


BTW, welcome to SMOKEmUP Cheers

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

never got around to the suburban today. but thats funny because i am one of those kids. im 24 and am always trying to learn.
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squeeezer
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Joined: 02 Mar 2007
Posts: 2427
Location: new richmond WI
191524.76 points


1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get scan tool
Look for cam crank sync pid
If retard or advance needed
Shut off engine retard or advance
Restart engine look at the change on sync until you are within + or - 2 degrees

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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry its been a while. i finally got around to replacing the distributor gear and no luck still running about 16 degrees advanced. rotating distributor does nothing until it starts to choke. i am really starting to think that it is time for a new ecu. thank you guys for all the useful information on this project.
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
71191.50 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_B@LLz wrote:
sorry its been a while. i finally got around to replacing the distributor gear and no luck still running about 16 degrees advanced. rotating distributor does nothing until it starts to choke. i am really starting to think that it is time for a new ecu. thank you guys for all the useful information on this project.


It is choking because the phasing is so far off you are trying to fire the previous cylinder...

OB2 is a crank fired system. My 99 Tahoe was terrible until I changed the crank sensor at the bottom of the timing cover. I fought it for over 6 months never having a code.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3472
Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeeezer wrote:
Get scan tool
Look for cam crank sync pid
If retard or advance needed
Shut off engine retard or advance
Restart engine look at the change on sync until you are within + or - 2 degrees



squeeezer is right. you will need a good scantool for this. you didnt mention what youre using. its been so long, i would have to hunt for the pid. if you can get your hands on an old Vetronics Master Tech, that will work very well. thats what i used last time i set the distributor phasing on one of those trucks.

what did the gear look like ? was it worn ?

do you have to deal with emission testing ?

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i have to put up with emmisions bs California is gay. the gear was slightly warn. nothing serious. i got around to replacing the ecu and the cam shaft sensor wire. and now the suburban runs fine. my scan tool has been through hell and back so i cant see what brand it is but it cost $200 at napa a while back so it better be worth it. and the crank sensor got replaced a little while ago. thank you guys for all the help and useful information.
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SMOKEmUP
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Joined: 30 May 2002
Posts: 3169

65093.54 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_B@LLz wrote:
i got around to replacing the ecu and the cam shaft sensor wire. and now the suburban runs fine.

So which one was it? Sensor wire? or ECU?

_________________
Stop running from your pain and embrace your pain. Your pain is going to be a part of your prize.

I challenge you to push yourself.
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Andy_B@LLz
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Location: Victorville, CA
378.86 points


1998 Chevrolet Suburban

PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not sure got the ecu for $30 and the wire for $10. at those prices and everything i have put into this project it really doesn't matter to me. it was one the other or both i replaced them at the same time and started the suburban right up with no problems.
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