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Starting on front end work.

 
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clay
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:13 pm    Post subject: Starting on front end work. Reply with quote

I started on replacing my front springs and maybe shocks. I searched around and found a company that sounded good. I talked to Alex at Money Maker Racing. He was a fun guy to talk to and wasn't really trying to sell something I didn't need. I'm going to hit some of my problems he identified. First I have PST Polygraphite bushings and he said they are about the worst made for drag racing. I took everything apart today and I agree. After whatever slimy lube they sent with the bushings goes away they almost get tacky and grippy. The upper control arm wasn't too bad but the lower was pretty hard to push up and down. When I installed them originally they would fall down with their own weight. That's one thing to address is getting them to move freely. I knew I needed springs so he figured out what rate I needed and I bought them. Next was shocks. I have Competition Engineering 3 way's which he said isn't a very good shock. He gave me the entire history of that design shock and it was very interesting - unfortunately I can't remember it all. He recommended a Calvert racing 90/10 non adjustable unit. When I took it out of the box, it is much slicker working than the CE unit. Granted this is pulling and pushing it by hand. The springs were $88 a pair and the shocks were $59 each so not bad at all. Then he went to the back end. I'm running the lower hole in Caltracs. He said I need to be in the upper hole with a transbrake to get a faster reacting instant center. Then he gave tire pressure and shock settings for the rear. The coolest thing is he gave me his business card with his cell number and said do not hestitat to call him anytime for installation questions. Even if I was at the track on Saturday, feel free to call for tuning advice. So far it seems they have outstanding customer service. I've got everything torn apart mocking up the new brakes so I'll take pictures when it goes back together. I did weigh all the old brake part and the Wilwood setup. It saves exactly as advertised - 30 lbs. I'll update in a few days hopefully. Clay
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William Jones
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like he gave you some good advice hopefully he wil get you hooked up at the track and running some low 60fts.

Bam

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:04 am    Post subject: Re: Starting on front end work. Reply with quote

clay wrote:
First I have PST Polygraphite bushings and he said they are about the worst made for drag racing. I took everything apart today and I agree. After whatever slimy lube they sent with the bushings goes away they almost get tacky and grippy. The upper control arm wasn't too bad but the lower was pretty hard to push up and down. When I installed them originally they would fall down with their own weight. That's one thing to address is getting them to move freely.


i had one of my rear lower control arms on my Impala break thanks to those bushings. fortunately i wasnt moving very fast when it broke.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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jeep_406
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Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
53123.48 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clay,
Are you doing this on your Nova or do you have a new ride. You're running a lot harder than I am.
In my Nova street car I used to run the Comp Engineering front shocks. John Calvert said he thought his shocks would work better and he was right. I also installed Avco upper & lower ball joints. They have a little more play over the stock ones but boy do they help the suspension move. Being old, I don't remember what I have in it for bushings. I have 5.5 inches of front end travel. Calvert said he likes 5 inches travel as a minimum. I have the complete caltrac Monoleaf set up in the back. He now offers his own rear shocks. He was selling Rancho's when I bought his setup.
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Paul P
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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure setting these cars up correctly is a battle of parts, ride height and weight distribution. Parts won't get you there alone. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction taking weight out of the front of the car.
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah Jeep, this is still my old Nova. I have another car project I'm starting but it's for my wife.
Paul - I couldn't agree more - it's gotta be a package that works. I just needed some guidance as to where to go. I'm actually excited to see what happens and see if I got good advice. I've seen evidence of everything he said so far, so my hope's up he's onto something. I've been helping to install some machinery at work this week and haven't had much time to work on it. Hopefully Saturday I'll get some time and get some pictures posted. Clay

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any reason why you don't run Delrin with a small amount of grease?
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Is there any reason why you don't run Delrin with a small amount of grease?


Funny you should mention that. Sorta like these?


These are actually Nylon 6/6. I had some scraps I made these out of. Nylon has similar properties as far as impact resistance, slipperiness, etc. so they should be fine. I gave about 0.005" clearance everywhere and the lower control arm drops instantly now.

Here are the new springs. Alex at Money Maker Racing said if I had a way to fully compress them overnight it would eliminate having to wait for them to settle.


Some pictures of the new brakes.



Here are the SSBC rotors I took off. You can tell Bowman takes some braking to get stopped. Discoloration and there are some signs of small surface cracks. They were still working flawlessly though.



That's all on this project for today. I'll put the other sping in the masher tomorrow and then I'll start putting everything together. Clay

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have been using the silicone brake caliper slide grease on urethane and similar bushings. so far it has worked very well.

good idea on the Delrin. i think my next set of bushings will be made out of that since we just got a 2"x 8' stick.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What PST sent was some sort of silicone based lube - it took a while before soap would lather on your hands. Everything slid together by hand when I originally installed them and moved fairly free. I don't know what happened to make them so "grippy" on the bushings and the upper arms still aren't bad at all - it's just the lowers that are so bad. However you would never know unless you took everything apart and pulled the control arms up and down by hand as the car still drove great. Clay
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Paul P
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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put some extended studs on those Wilwood hubs. They look like the same .810 vented ones I have. I just opted for the drilled and slotted.
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2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi
1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N.A.
6.95@98.6 MPH 1/8mi
10.97@121 MPH 1/4mi
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent choice Clay. Looks good!
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took a quick trip yesterday and the brakes feel really good. Did their break in procedure so no really high speed stops yet. I couldn't bear to cover up the center caps so I made this plate to leave them uncovered.

I put the slots in to let water drain out from the center hole. I'm going to drill a small hole at an angle through the unused lug holes on the 4 1/2" pattern to the center hole. Then any water should get slung out be centrifugal force after I wash it. Clay

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