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383 Build
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crandall
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Joined: 17 Apr 2011
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Location: Grand Foks , ND
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 3:04 pm    Post subject: 383 Build Reply with quote

Hey guys, me and my dad are starting a 383 stroker build and all we have as of now is a block... So basically i was wondering if anyone had some input on good or bad rotating assemblies out there? or any good gee -wise good to know information thanks!!!!!!!
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First you have to share some more information. What are your goals from the build. Mainly what are your power goals. Naturally aspirated, nitrous, blower, turbo? Hydraulic or solid camshaft? These will give us a general idea of the rpm range you need and the strength you need in the bottom end components. Welcome to Smokemup. Clay
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crandall
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Location: Grand Foks , ND
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:14 pm    Post subject: 383 Build Reply with quote

Well this is going to be a daily driver. we were looking for something that has low to mid 400hp and equal amount of torque, naturally aspirated. as far as cams i have no clue as to what would be a good cam...... this is going to be going in my dads 52 plymouth so its a fairly heavy car, and he loves power but he stills drives around to car shows and puts around, and drive across states so we need something reliable and sturdy
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

O.k. that shouldn't be a problem and not cost a lot of money. Here is the crank I ran for several years with nitrous and a Procharger making as much as 609 r.w.h.p. (low 700's at crank).
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Scat-9000-Series-Stroker-Lightweight-Cast-Crank-Chev-SB/productinfo/CS383P/
As for rods you could actually run stock 350 rods if you wanted to use a 5.7 rod which is no problem for your intended useage. Here is a farily cheap rod option. I listed the 5.7" with a bushed little end but they have pressed pins and a 6.0" length if you wanted that.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/5140-I-Beam-Rods-Chev-SB-LJ-5700-Bushed/productinfo/8057BC/
Pistons - you can easily use a hypereutectic piston. Here is an option. Now the picture is a domed piston, however the part # is for a dished piston that is mid 9's on compression ratio on a 64cc head.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Speed-Pro-Hypereutectic-Pistons-Chev-SB-383-4030-Bore/productinfo/H859CP30/
If you want to save some picking parts to work together here is another option.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/Balanced-Rotating-Assembly-Chev-383-Flat-Top/productinfo/383F30/
This assembly shows flat tops but you can probably call them and they can substitute a dish top if you want it.
I showed parts from Competition Products because I was on their site looking for something else. There are seveal suppliers you could pick from although I have recently started using CP and have had good luck with them and pricing is very good. I have also use Jegs, Summit and Doug Herbert and they have been good also. Let us know what else you need to know and we'll try to help you along with your project. Clay

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crandall
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:25 am    Post subject: 383 build Reply with quote

alright cool i appreciate you taking the time to respond this helps out tremendously. ive been trying to research this stuff but im currently deployed and i can only view certain websites so it makes it hard... thanks agian for the help.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depending on how much time you have this may be another option. I don't really like crate motors personally but honestly they are a good option if someone just wants an engine. If you want the experience and knowledge, that's different but don't build it yourself just to save money. Here is what I'm talking about. This is a long block assembly from Competiton Products - 383 with aluminum heads and even the late model one piece rear main to boot.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/TriStar-Chev-383-Super-Long-Block-Late-Model/productinfo/LB383AL/

Now if you add up the parts - 230 - crank, 150 - rods, 300 - pistons, 50 - rings, 50 - bearings, 100 - gaskets, 150ish - oil pan, timing cover and valve covers, 1000 - heads, 150 - cam and lifters, 100 - pushrods, 130 - head studs, approx. 500 for machine work and you still have to assemble it. Total = 2910 just in parts and machine work. I probably left a few things out but when you add it up a crate engine is a good deal. Once again, not trying to discourage you just trying to be up front with the reality of building an engine (don't know if this is your first build or not). I'm happy to help and thank YOU for your service for our country. Clay

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crandall
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thank you. i was wanting to build it from the ground up so that i know what exactly is in it. i dont mind spending more money to do that because this is going to be a slow build ya know like when the wife lets me know i can get more parts haha. i grew up with my dad working on cars and we built my first car together (fox body mustang) but when he built the engine i was only 15 and at the time i wasnt focused on helping him on that. so know that he has his project car i would like to build an engine for him... thanks agian for all the help agian this helps out greatly!
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jeep_406
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Joined: 12 Sep 2002
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Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to SMOKEmUP.com.
The only thing I'd add to Clay's post is that I'd go the extra coin and use a roller cam setup. I run a hydraulic roller after years of flat tappet stuff. I say Hydraulic because you can run less spring pressure.

If there is a choice between pressed or floating wrist pins I'd go with the floating.

Also have your machine work done at a known reliable shop. I always have them square and deck the block and check alignment even on stock rebuilds.

Assemble the engine in as clean an area as possible and if you question anything stop and get the answer.

I guess that's more than one thing. . . must be the meds!!
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crandall
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Location: Grand Foks , ND
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is the block that we are starting with:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Summit-Racing-355-or-383-Chevy-Remanufactured-Engine-Blocks/?keyword=383+chevy&autoview=SKU
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. I'm glad you are choosing to build it yourself. I love it when people try. I hope I didn't come across as trying to discourage you from doing that. It looks like that block already has the clearancing done - if everything actually misses, that's a lot of work already done. Keep us posted on the build. Clay
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crandall
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh i definitly agree, i have more respect for a guy does things himself and tries to learn than some guy who just has money and is like "hey look what i bought, i have no clue whats in it, i just bought it"... i dont take it as discouraging at all you just helping me out and i appreciate it.
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crandall
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would there be any disadvantages running the flat top pistons, as apposed to the dish pistons.
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you don't have heads yet, no real advantage or disadvantage. You will have at least 2 sizes of combustion chamber to choose from (usually 64 and 72cc - may be 75 on some). Personally I like flat tops. I think there is a larger quench area to help avoid detonation. Granted I'm not a professional engine builder but that's just my preference. Clay
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crandall
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These were a couple heads i was looking at , i was leaning towards the Brodix but let me know what u guys think.

http://www.summitracing.com/compare.aspx
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clay wrote:
and 72cc - may be 75 on some). Personally I like flat tops. I think there is a larger quench area to help avoid detonation. Granted I'm not a professional engine builder but that's just my preference. Clay


Excellent call!!!!!!!! .040 squish with a flat top is the best with a 72 cc chamber on a 383. For a street motor.

The link no workie
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