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93 s10 350 wont rev past 3000rpms idles at 500rpms
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no i dont beleave cause my tach is set at v8 and the comp i put in is a v8 comp also i know the truck should run with more power then it is you can tell when you are shifting
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I was saying is: Does the computer think the 6 is still in there? That would explain the low rev limit and low idle.

I thought you ran the v6 computer?

Wouldn't the calmap be different?
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the computer shouldnt know the difference. TBI is a very primative system. when i built my 4.3 for my Mitsu truck, i used a computer from a 5.0 truck. based on my research, the 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7 TBI engines all use the same ECM. its the PROM thats different. i forget what part number the ECM is and my idiot bro-in-law lost all that info when he bought my truck. one thing that seems to stand out is that the OP said the injector pattern started breaking up at higher rpms. i would like to know what fuel pressure is when this is happening.
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuck a new fuel pump in the truck read 12psi when breaks up i was thinking the pickup because with it showing the computer no crank rotation i would kill the fuel sending currect?
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, with no rpm signal it wont pulse the injectors. one more thing that came to mind is the oil pressure switch. some would cause the ECM to shut off the pump if oil pressuer dropped (or bad sensor). these were three wire sensors at the back of the intake. usually you get a code for those but worth checking.
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea i got oil pressure i have a T with a Manuel gauge and the electric gauge there have pressure on both gauges
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok well i put a new dist in it and still no luck the new dist resistance is 0.753 resistance while the old one was 0.821 at the pickup coil i put the timing light on the injector wires like you said and the light does not light up at all
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok well got another distributor that i know for a fact is good pulled it outta my other truck. and now it it will run to 3000rpms let it coast pop pop out of the exhaust possible that maybe the cam gear is off by a tooth?
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

timing light has to be connected to the signal wire to the injectors. if you clamp it around the pair (or all of them) it wont work. usually you have to pull the wires away from the t-body and separate the wires a bit. keep trying one at a time until the light flashes. from there you just adjust the degrees on the timing light until you can clearly see the "cone" (kinda like focusing a camera).

timing could be off with your "pop" or it could just be fouled/misfiring plugs.

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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so you saying there's no way the cam timeing is off a tooth. and would fouled plugs make the truck not wanna go past 3000 rpms. i do know i had went threw alot of gas
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i do know that the number one cyc plug is black but the center part i believe its the dielectric is whitish the motor is bored 0.010 over and i used Bosch plus 2 plugs
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

daddydec21 wrote:
ok so you saying there's no way the cam timeing is off a tooth. and would fouled plugs make the truck not wanna go past 3000 rpms. i do know i had went threw alot of gas


its possible to have missed the timing by one tooth when you did the chain. however, you said it still runs the same. i personally dont like Bosch plugs unless youre putting them in a Mercedes. get some NGK TRS6 plugs (im going off memory on that part number so it may not be 100% accurate). the plugs probably wont fix your problem (unless you engine is only running on 4 cylinders) but you will certainly be better off with a decent spark plug. this may have already been asked but, did you check valve adjustment ? you could even try setting them to 0 lash to see if that makes any difference. maybe run a compression test just to be sure everything is as it should be.

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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not sure how to do the valve lash and when i changed the old time gear and chain the old one was real loose matter a fact i could fold the chain over one tooth and close to making it around a second tooth while still assembled
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pull all the plugs and do a compression check. that should give some indication if the cam is out of time or anything weird is going on like bent valves or flat cam lobes, etc. to set the lash at 0, you just adjust the valves without adding the extra 1/4 or 1/2 turn for preload. just tighten the rocker nut until all the slack is gone from the pushrod. im really lousy at explaining this process so maybe someone else will chime in here.........
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daddydec21
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

compression is all around 120psi
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