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350 Build-Up Help

 
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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
Posts: 6
Location: St. Louis, MO
330.26 points



PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:16 pm    Post subject: 350 Build-Up Help Reply with quote

I have been a long time lurker but finally decided to get a user name because I have been unable to find specific answers to what the best bang for my buck build would be. I figured there are no better people to ask than you guys!

We are in the process of building a street stock to run next season and the motor rules are much more limited compared to what we are used to in the modified class. Here are the rules we have to run:

CARBURETORS: Stock OEM Two (2) barrel carburetor, NO HOLLEY’S!!! Carburetor to be mounted to manifold. No adapter plates. Choke can be removed. G.M. Rochester, Ford Autolite & Chrysler will be allowed. Rochester’s will be allowed to Run Holley Jets. Venturi Size: 1 3/8” Butterfly Size: 1 11/16” MAXIMUM! MUST FIT TRI-CITY TECH GAUGES, NO EXCEPTIONS!
FUEL PUMPS: OEM Style block mounted fuel pumps will be allowed. No electric fuel pumps allowed. No pressure regulators or bypass returns of any type will be allowed.
INTAKE MANIFOLDS: Cast iron OEM intake, NO MODIFICATIONS of any type allowed. No grinding, machining, acid porting or polishing of any kind will be allowed. Weight must be OEM.
EXHAUST: Collector Type Headers will be allowed. Exhaust must run past rear of transmission.
FLYWHEEL & CLUTCH: Stock OEM flywheel (no aluminum). Stock single disk clutch and pressure plate per make of engine. Explosion proof bell housing required (scatter shields). Automatic transmissions to run explosion proof blanket or 1/4" steel scatter shield over converter. Automatics must have a working torque convertor.
HEADS: Engines and head castings - single valve spring only, screw-in stud guide plate OK. NO MILLING OR CUTTING OF VALVE SPRING SEATS TO ALLOW USE OF LARGER VALVE SPRINGS, MUST USE STOCK OEM VALVE SPRINGS! 
A. GM-350 CID, to use these castings only 487-882-997-624-126-493-185-339-441-993 
B. GM 305 CID, to use these castings 434-450-416-896-520-601- Intake: 1.940 Exhaust 1.500 MAXIMUM! 
C. FORD 351 W CID C90E - Intake: 1.940 Exhaust: 1.500 MAXIMUM
D. Chrysler 360 CID - Intake: 1.880 Exhaust: 1.600 MAXIMUM
NO PORTING OR POLISHING OF ANY KIND WILL BE ALLOWED! 
NO EXTENSIVE MILLING OR ANGLE MILLING WILL BE ALLOWED! 
COMBUSTION CHAMBERS MUST REMAIN WITHIN 3cc’s of STOCK

PISTONS: Flat top or dish pistons only! NO GAS PORTED PISTONS! 
MAXIMUM .060 OVERBORE ALLOWED ON ALL MAKE & MODEL!!
CRANKSHAFT & CONNECTING RODS: Stock OEM crankshaft & connecting rods, no aftermarket rotating assemblies will be allowed. Stock stroke (must match block #’s), No polishing, knife edging, chroming or lightning of crankshafts or connecting rods allowed. Balancing will be permitted.
IGNITION: Stock type HEI or point type distributors and parts. No Aftermarket Coils, MSD Ignition, or magnetos.
OIL PANS: "Claimer" style pans allowed. Inspection plug will be MANDATORY & must be inline with the #3 cylinder. Must be a minimum of 1/2" pipe!
CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS & ROCKER ARMS: Hydraulic/non roller only, stamped steel rocker arms only, no roller rockers or roller tip rockers.

If anyone could help me out in which combination would be the best bang for my buck to run I would really appreciate it!
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want to build a Chevy, Ford or Chrysler? That is a good start.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"bang for the buck" = CHEVY!!!!

all other makes are notoriously more expensive and more difficult to find parts for. an Olds will definitely confuse the hell out of the tech inspector, and you would be able to get away with a bit more secret, but good luck finding a machinist that can keep one together long enough to drive it onto the trailer much less down the track Mad .

IMO, these "stock" classes are much more difficult to compete in and the only way to win is attention to detail. there are a few things you could do to the carb such as profiling the throttle shafts and milling off the choke horn. im not familiar with the casting numbers allowed. would any of those include the later model Vortech engines ? i would also consider a custom ground cam, auto trans with a good converter and enough gear to get the thing rolling.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
Posts: 6
Location: St. Louis, MO
330.26 points



PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would definitely like to build a chevy. I already have a nice and clean 350 with 4 bolt mains to build on. I also have a 2 bbl rochester that is going to have some tricks used on it courtesy of my friends at willy's carb and dyno shop. The casting numbers is the biggest thing giving me a headache as I am not sure which ones will give me the biggest bang for my buck. The cam is also an area where I am a bit confused.
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SMOKEmUP
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Joined: 30 May 2002
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65097.54 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What fuel can you run?

What type of racing? drag race? or oval?

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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
Posts: 6
Location: St. Louis, MO
330.26 points



PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SMOKEmUP wrote:
What fuel can you run?

What type of racing? drag race? or oval?


We will be using racing gas, more than likely 110 octane. We are going to be racing on a 3/8 mile high banked dirt oval.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess Mortec.com is lost in cyberspace!!!!!!!!! They had some good info!
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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I tried going to it last week and it was not working...bummer
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
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Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would start with the 441 heads. The 882's are a crack waiting to happen. From what I have read and have seen the 441 has a decent port.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the real compression # and talk to real cam grinders on the cam. We can give a few.
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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
Posts: 6
Location: St. Louis, MO
330.26 points



PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah I have been looking for a set of 441's or 487's. Thanks for the help!
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dmr22 wrote:
yeah I have been looking for a set of 441's or 487's. Thanks for the help!


Might have a set of 441's will have to look.
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dmr22
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Joined: 25 Jul 2010
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good, let me know.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't have them. I am wondering where they went?

I will keep an eye out though.
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