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White smoke drivers side exhaust ?
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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:04 pm    Post subject: White smoke drivers side exhaust ? Reply with quote

Just noticed white smoke on the drivers exhaust of my new 383. I'm thinking head gasket but not sure. It will smoke for a few minutes when started but then go away after a few minutes of running. If I start the car up within a few minutes there is no smoke. if it sits longer, 1 hr or so it will smoke for a few minutes. I pulled the plugs and # 5 looked like maybe it had some oil. That is what has me stumped as I was really leaning toward a head gasket.

Any ides ?
Heads AFR 195
Performer RPM manifold .

HELP !!!
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William Jones
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure its white and not bluish white? Easiest way to tell if the head gasket is leaking get a radiator pressure checker.
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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks white but I guess it could be blueish white. I was hoping I had an intake leak and sucking oil from the lifter valley but I afraid now it's something more serious. I have a radiator pressure tester and will check that tonight.

Why would it stop after the car has ran for a while, that is what I'm a bit confused about. Can't imagine why a head gasket would be leaking already. Block was decked. new AFAR heads, new fel pro gaskets and ARP head studs. Mystery remains but it's not rocket science I will figure it out I hope !!!
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squeeezer
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is this a real fresh motor??????

coolant may wick out the head bolts
and should go away with time or miles

very common if this is in fact the issue

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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No not really fresh. Has about 2000 miles now. Problems just started recently .
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with William Jones, I would pressurize each cylinder with air and see if there are any air bubbles coming up in the radiator. If you have the newer eliminator heads, they use a good valve seal and have solved the oil drainback problems so I don't think that is it. I agree it shouldn't be a head gasket either. Let us know what you find. Clay
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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 12:58 am    Post subject: found the source of the white smoke !!! Reply with quote

Well I found the source of my white smoke and now I have to pull the motor to replace the head gasket on the drivers side ( ARP studs head wont come off in the car ). Question is should I do them both while I got it out? Motor only has about 2000 miles don't know why one is bad in the first place. Block was decked and heads are new AFR 195's.

1 or 2 that is the question. I'm thinking I should leave well enough alone if there is not problem with it now.

What do you guys think ?
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jeep_406
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always leaned toward doing both heads especially if you have to remove the engine.
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you are saying there is no real reason for the head gasket to be leaking (you didn't have a 500 shot fogger on it and didn't tell us now did you Very Happy ), I would pull the other side and try to see if there are any signs as to why the first side is leaking. I had coolant leaking on my motor with AFR heads and a new Motown block, but it was an external leak. The gasket should have the combustion chamber sealed and at least not allow coolant into the chamber. What type of gasket were you using? Take some pictures of the gaskets when you get it apart. Look at the gasket very closely and see if you can tell that it was compressed everywhere. Clay
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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm leaning toward doing both gaskets but don't want to cause a problem where there is none now.

I used the good fel pro gaskets recommended by AFR.

No nitrous on motor yet !!!
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Skunkworkx
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1968 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm smack dab in the middle of the same issue. Blew between #3 and 5. Bought good gaskets this time ($150) and am doing both...might as well since it's apart.
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William Jones
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you retorque the heads after the motor wen't through a couple heat cycles? If not and you can get to the nuts back them off one at a time in torque sequence then retorque and move to the next one. Most people don't do this espeacially Chevy guys (the extra bolts help them take short cuts) but I always do and almost always get half or more turns on the retorque. I have also topped leaks likes this, it is part of my breakin process on a new motor and is a PITA on a EFI car sense I am not setup to run them on a stand yet. If the head gasket isn't to far gone it should seal up.

Bam

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Take the horse out off the barn and let her RUN BABY RUN!!!!!

92 LX 454ci Clevor 9.24@142.53 N/A
71 Mach1 454ci Clevor 10.16@134 N/A 3850lbs race weight "Lost in fire"
03 Cobra Bone stock 12.42
68 Falcon 363ci 10.55@126 N/A
95 GT 363ci 11.08@118 N/A
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jeep_406
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always retorque heads after a couple of heat cycles. It is a pain but I don't think I've ever found all the bolts within spec.
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Rbace123
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I did not retorque. I think the felpro gaskets # 1003 and the ARP head studs said not to retorque. I would think retorque would risk breaking the seal loose on the studs where they go into the block and cause a coolant leak. Been there done that the first time around.
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jeep_406
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It just may be an old school thing with me but I figure if a fastener is not torqued to spec it leaves more chance to failure. Don't know why but it always seems the lower bolts on a small block Chevy need adjustment. Course, you have to pull the headers to get at them.
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