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AOD TV cable with Holley carb- anyone got experience?

 
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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:03 pm    Post subject: AOD TV cable with Holley carb- anyone got experience? Reply with quote

So we just picked up a 88 Stang with a 302 and a AOD in it, and its been converted to a Holley carb. The current TV cable setup is atrocious- I find a lot of conflicting info on how it should be set up and wondered if anyone had some insight.

I keep leaning towards buying a Lokar kit and just doing it all their way but cant find anyone's 2 cents on them either. I fear its more show than go but nothing but a hunch on that one.

Worst comes to worst it goes 5 speed but for now we hope to put some miles on the AOD in it

Thanks

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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I kinda figured it was a long shot asking here- I just knew if I did indeed get advice it would be solid stuff.

Going to order the holley TV geometry correction kit and the Sonnax problem solver coupler and set it to book specs, see what it does... Sonnax has fixed many a AODE problem of mine, I have faith in their parts

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

might be a bit premature to assume theres not going to be any help on your issue. this thread has only been up for a day. not everyone gets to jump on the internet everyday. be patient Wink .
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It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could help you jspecifically with a 200R4 or 700R4 and I'll tell you what I know about them later - right now I'm in the Verizon store testing a netbook. Clay
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squeeezer
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gm t.v. =important stuff for longevity

ford= even more so

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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
might be a bit premature to assume theres not going to be any help on your issue. this thread has only been up for a day. not everyone gets to jump on the internet everyday. be patient Wink .


Sorry didnt mean to come across as impatient- just made a decision of a direction to start working towards. I will post a pic of the current mess on there and youll see why I didnt need guidance to know it had to go.... lol

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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny how the GM TV cables are everywhere for sale and the ford ones seem elusive... I stumbled upon a valve body that does away with the whole TV setup but the 250 is too much considering the long term goals of being manual trans....

I guess i will be hitting the salvage yards soon and finding out if the EFI cables fit the same way. I gotta get the sonnax geometry correction kit in first so i know the stud dimensions- current setup is the cable cut off and looped around a bolt through the lowest hole on the 650DP's throttle linkage... bizarre.

Realistically the car was bought assuming the trans was fried so if it is, so be it. If I can throw some brackets and a cable on it and work the bugs out and we get to play for cheap before tearing it down to convert, even better Very Happy

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MufflerBearings69
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a little more looking around leads me to think I can use a 4 banger TV cable and a new stud on the Holley (No idea what the heck this odd bolt is this guy used but its definitely not a TV cable stud) and run with it.

Here is my question for you guys- There are 2 ways to ensure the Holley geometry wont hurt the cable- either break it or pull it out of adjustment- one is the bracket that bolts on to correct the geometry. I cant say I 100% understand what its doing besides moving the stud a little further out from the pivot point, extending the throw and moving the cable further.

The other option is a failsafe that is nothing but a spring and a stopper that leaves room for the throttle to turn another 30 degrees or so after the cable is pulled taught. I wonder about this one, as then the line pressure would be coming up faster as the throttle is put to it- and be at max line pressure from 70% throttle or so onward. Spring also prevents yanking it out of adjustment by cushioning the movement.

As I understand all of this, I want to set the TV cable to have 0-3 PSI of line pressure at the checking port when the car is idling in neutral (cant be checked in park) and then there is a preset distance I want to hold the throttle open (between .390 and .404" is what I have read) and check for 30-35 PSI at the port still running in neutral.

It seems to me then I just want to be sure my geometry pulls the cable its full range of travel by WOT? If not, would I not be losing line pressure?

I plan to accomplish all of this with a 4banger TV cable (can be had for 5 bucks a piece salvage in perfect shape, why pay 100 bucks?) a new TV stud from holley, and I will fab up a bracket to bolt to the intake to hold the adjuster body. I am guessing the first round will require moving the main adjuster body front to back on the engine until I get it close enough to be able to use the factory adjustment range to fine tune this setup. Pretty minor- then take the dimensions and make 1 nice clean one and add a tab for the double throttle return spring I feel the car should have too.

Sorry so long winded- trying to sort out the thought process and start in with direction Very Happy I hope to make it all work for under 50 bucks too and if it all works correctly but the TV cables are old and brittle a brand new cable is no issue to buy...

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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh forgot one thing- that throttle opening distance bugs me. That spec is the distance a EFI throttle body should be held open and I dont know if the dimension should change for the Holley? Maybe the geometry correction kit creates those dimensions? Hmmmph
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clay
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry it took a while for me to get back to you. You have pretty muchg figured out what you need to know. The distance from the carb shaft pivot point is as you know one factor that determines the amount of TV pull / degree of throttle shaft rotation. I have shortened this radius on some transmissions to start off with a higher initial postion on the cable. This will raise shift points as most factory transmission setups shift a little to soon for me, especially with a decent converter. Another factor is the angle of the stud vs. the cable mounting postion. It's sort of like a piston / crank setup. When you start to get close to TDC or BDC, there is very little piston movement for each degree of rotation. When the crank arm is 90* from the cable pull you will get the most travel per degree of rotation. I'm thinking that's what some of the TV correction kits do to make the geometry better for say a Holley carb. I would think that a 200R4 or 700R4 kit would also work for an AOD except for maybe the cable connection itself. However the most you would have to do is find anything with an AOD in it and take some quick measurements to duplicate what Ford did. I think you pretty much have it figured out though. Clay
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MufflerBearings69
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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep- think I can take a marker and mark the cable at rest, and move the throttle to WOT and mark, and measure the travel. That will give me a rough idea.

I do think the safet spring would be good- then I can have full line pressure by right about 3/4 throttle and not sweat it. Just gotta make sure I get the idle and part throttle line pressures right.

The port to check the line pressure is 1/8" npt- I keep thinking I can just put a NPT to male -AN adapter in there, and use a spare preamde line to any gauge rated for 250 psi? I kinda like the idea of being able to drive the car with it and see what the pressure goes to when floored under load... Plus can just throw a -AN cap on it when not diagnosing anything.

Thanks for the insight- I hope this all works out as cheap and easy as it seems so far with some TLC finesse and time (like everything else good)

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clay
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I checked line pressure on my 200R4, I did it on jack stands. You can put it in gear at idle, set the parking brake and just pull the cable out with your hand. You should see pressure rise. You will have to check it in different ranges. Seems like on the 200 and 700 there is a low / reverse boost valve in the pressure regulating valvetrain so you will get a higher pressure in those two ranges. Can't remember what the pressures were but I'm thinking they were in the low to mid 300's on it. This doesn't really do anything to help figure out the throtle / TV relationship but it would give you an idea of what pressures you could expect. Clay
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