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Man need help motor gets hot now temp 210/220
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jag327
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 83
Location: PG County MD
3218.32 points


1982 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:46 am    Post subject: Man need help motor gets hot now temp 210/220 Reply with quote

Man now the motor gets hot on new rebuild. Change stat to Mr. gasket 160 change coolet to water still gets hot temp 210 timing total 38 motor 327/30 830cfm carb air gap manifold schneider race cams 1.6 rockers aluminum heads new water pump steel crank cryo treated rods butter fly top pistons.

When I'm out driving on hot day temp reach to 210/220 with fan switch turn on. When I'm driving temp drops down to 190 to 195. On a cool day out side temp around 70 motor temp is around 180...

The car is 82 camaro. Hp shop I went to check the motor on the dyno everthing I did looks good no pinging. He said change the radiator to a 3/4 row type, now the motor makes more hp, the radiator I have will not cool the motor now - is this true.

On the 1st build up I bought a new radiator from summit.

Man if I have to change out the radiator I will... but trying to use the money on some other parts.

Thanks
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never really bought "the motor is making more h.p. now so it's going to run hotter" thing. Sure at w.o.t. it's making more power, but at idle and at cruise it's making the same power as a stock 350. The way I look at it, while you're cruising it takes "X" amount of horsepower to move the car at a certain speed based on rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag regardless of what type or size of engine is installed. Check the basics first, fan running the right direction (most likely so based on what you're explaining). Your car is a ground breather so are all of the air dams still in place and not ripped off. I personally haven't had good luck with electric fans, I know a lot of people do, but you can stick a mechanical back on (with shroud) to see if it helps. Really you should be about able to cool it with factory everything. Clay
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually the heat you are burning comes from the amount of gas you are burning. So if you are dumping in more gas (BSFE has gone up from before) then the heat the motor produces goes up with it. More horsepower, more heat. Just because you are not using the horsepower doesn't mean it isn't there.

There is a correlation between BTU and horsepower (you can convert one to the other and is often done to figure the power of external combustion engines). As your BTU load goes up so must the ability of the radiator to shed those extra BTU's. I prefer aluminum radiators because you can run them at a higher pressure if and only if you do not have a brass copper heater core attached to the system. If you are keeping the heater keep the brass and copper radiator as it is better at shedding heat if you can get enough air through it.

Once again the two big tubes of an aluminum radiator have more surface area than the four small tubes of the copper radiator and the four small tubes create more air drag which requires a bigger fan to create the pressure differential to make it work. So the aluminum is better if you have an electric fan which barely moves any air compared to the larger more powerful mechanical fan used on old muscle cars.

Big Dave
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jag327
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
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Location: PG County MD
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1982 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man this car is driving me nuts, Never been through so many changes... When I went to Budds Creek Race Way I did 8 runs, when I was driving home herd this funny sound under the car pull over look under the car. The torque arm from rear end that runs up to the tranny mount had a split in it. So I went to the junk yard and pull 1 off a car and install it. So I no next year I have my work cut out for me trying to keep the rear from shifting.

I have a electric fan in front of the radiator and a fan mounted on the water pump. My radiator on the car now is a 1 row aluminum type I pick up from summit last year. "O" the spark plugs are autolite AR3924 gap at 40 I thought the plugs may be to hot for the motor. But the company I bought the heads from told me to use this plug type.

Is the 2 row with bigger tubes better than a 3 or 4 row type.

Let me no what you think about keeping the motor cool, and I will take some pictures and post them here soon.
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jag327
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1982 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man this forum been very good here a lot better than some of the other's on the net. If you like to send a little money to smokemup.com - how where - is there a number here to call them.
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jag327 wrote:
Man this forum been very good here a lot better than some of the other's on the net. If you like to send a little money to smokemup.com - how where - is there a number here to call them.


Well sort of: to use the calculators in the racing math section costs money but that to my knowledge is the only thing that we charge for aside from T0-shirts with Smoke 'em Up on it (Cool black quality shirt with a lime green logo). But be careful of the cam specs down load for desk-top dyno's as you only get four or so cam down loads (forgot how many) regardless of how much money you throw at Smoke.

As to the two row being better than a four brass or a single row of aluminum yes. You are looking for surface area to transfer the heat of the engine from the coolant to the air flowing around the tubes. Because aluminum is a stronger metal than copper it can have the fins further apart for better air flow around the tubes, the tubes are bigger in diameter for more surface area, and because there are only two of them max there is less of a restriction on the air flow going around the coils so you get more air flow and the air that hits the trailing edge of the last tube isn't as pre heated by turbulence and a lot of contact with other tubes before it gets through the radiator. Copper is a better heat conductor than aluminum, but because of how they are made aluminum radiators will shed more heat faster.

Big Dave
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a 2 row Aluminum and ditch the electric fan. You can't beat the mechanical belt driven setup for city driving.
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jag327
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1982 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a few pics... of the radiator.


[img][/img]


[img][/img]


[img][/img]
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is the bottom half of that shroud???????
That is killing you period!!!

Ok Smokers bring it on! Laughing

Air is like water. The path to the least resistance!
You need the lower part. I am glad you sent the picture.
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jag327
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1982 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bottom half would not fit, the car had a V6 in it... But the motor
ran find with this set up on the 1st rebuild on the 327 motor.
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jag327 wrote:
The bottom half would not fit, the car had a V6 in it... But the motor
ran find with this set up on the 1st rebuild on the 327 motor.


A srhoud is what it is. You need it! Cool
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
More horsepower, more heat.

This is what I was saying, however at idle and cruise, he isn't making or using any more power than before. Sure at w.o.t. there will be more heat to deal with but I don't see it at the smaller throttle openings. Now maybe with a fresh build, there will be more friction creating heat until the rings get seated, but this should be over fairly quickly. Is the front electric fan set up to be a pusher? I agree with the others, whatever it takes, triming, cutting, etc. get the bottom half of the shroud back on. You say it ran fine with the other 327, so what other things were changed during this setup, water pump, pulley ratio, fan blade, etc. Anything that changed could be a potential problem. Clay

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

210-220 with half a shroud, youre not overheating. a little warmer than most would like but if you get a good tight shroud around that fan, you will be able to get the temps down at low speed. if you cant bolt on the factory shroud then make one. i wouldnt waste time with anything else until you get that shroud taken care of.
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It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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squeeezer
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes a lower shroud with the addition of the air dam below the core suport

i realize your year has an actual grill but ......when the vehicle is moving and you get a little too hot v.s. at idle parked then add an air dam

some have covered the huge open space on the sides of the radiator for improved cooling

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squeeezer
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i forget Embarassed

where you located???

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