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just went through my carb , but.............
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squeeezer
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Joined: 02 Mar 2007
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Location: new richmond WI
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:14 pm    Post subject: just went through my carb , but............. Reply with quote

im probably way overthinking something and ill have to work it out @the track when i find time

so i still run a powervalve and not sure when or why id run just jets in the primaries

so i stage my car at 2000rpm vac is at 11hg
when i gunit of the footbrake it shoots directly to 5hg
i have a 7.5 hg p.v.

how do you guys go about this.......forget mileage(ive been there done that)

dont forget i have that 125 shot i hit off the line as well (powershot)

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you are in the ballpark. I run a PV in the primaries. I see no reason not to.
Using Smokes calculater I come up with 7.374" on the PV. paranoid
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I like to run a power valve. Since it's rating is above the manifold vacuum level you have on the brake, it's open and you effectively have the same setup as if you had it blocked and larger main jets. With the power valve it will just run cleaner coming back up the return road, etc. I have seen some tests that do have a little quicker e.t. from blocking the power valve and jetting up. I don't really know why though. All the power valve does in open up a passage from the bowl to the main well. It does pick up fuel a little higher in the bowl, but in the primary bowl this shouldn't be an issue, definately in the secondary bowl if a power valve is used though. I'm rambling now, back to the original question, unless you find it doing something stupid on the launch, I'd leave the power valve in it. Nitrous isn't a problem with it unless you have a huge lean backfire and it doesn't have the power valve protector (check valve) in the base plate. Clay
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crap - treed again. That's what rambling will get you.....Clay
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clay wrote:
unless you find it doing something stupid on the launch, I'd leave the power valve in it.

thats why i left my power valves in the carb. if it aint broke, dont fix it.


on another note, squeeezer, how old are your tires ? this discussion came up a while back, here and on another board also, and im curious if your tires might be why your 60s wouldnt improve. ive figured out that my tires are gone. they only have about 30 passes but are old and the car wont 60 for sh!t anymore.

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It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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squeeezer
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
clay wrote:
unless you find it doing something stupid on the launch, I'd leave the power valve in it.

thats why i left my power valves in the carb. if it aint broke, dont fix it.


on another note, squeeezer, how old are your tires ? this discussion came up a while back, here and on another board also, and im curious if your tires might be why your 60s wouldnt improve. ive figured out that my tires are gone. they only have about 30 passes but are old and the car wont 60 for sh!t anymore.





you may have something here
i think they are old cant remember when i bought them so ya they are old
probably 30 or so passes
i just installed an adjustable torque arm on the t/a
both pinion and i/c are adjustable
so next time im hittin the 60' nothing else matters at this point
i will not even go a full run until i can at least hit 1.6's

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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't the power valve doing what its supposed to? Manifold vac above 7.5 holds it closed, and below the valve opens to richen the mixture so it doesn't bog. The only problem is if it closes during the run you are going to be leaner after it closes which makes tuning a nightmare, and if you really want to have the carb sized right, it shouldn't have any, or very little vacuum during wide open throttle. If it has vac during the run you are losing some power potential because the air has to be restricted by the carb to make vacuum, and that restriction is horsepower loss. The carb needs to be sized so the valve stays open during the entire run.
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clay
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The only problem is if it closes during the run you are going to be leaner after it closes which makes tuning a nightmare

I have heard of this happening but mainly in a class that restricts power with a carb. Something like running a 390 Holley on a 350 round track setup. I agree it would be a real pain though. Clay

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jeep_406
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always run a power valve in the primaries and don't remember ever seeing vacuum during wide open throttle.
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeep that means your carb is big enough. We were running a friends 440 mopar with a 750 Holley, and he was getting about 1.5 inches of vac at high rpm under WOT. We changed the carb to an 850 and he picked up slightly on E.T. and MPH. and the vac dropped to almost nothing.
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lun40119
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1967 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knarley Darley wrote:
Isn't the power valve doing what its supposed to? Manifold vac above 7.5 holds it closed, and below the valve opens to richen the mixture so it doesn't bog. The only problem is if it closes during the run you are going to be leaner after it closes which makes tuning a nightmare, and if you really want to have the carb sized right, it shouldn't have any, or very little vacuum during wide open throttle. If it has vac during the run you are losing some power potential because the air has to be restricted by the carb to make vacuum, and that restriction is horsepower loss. The carb needs to be sized so the valve stays open during the entire run.


Great post.....this is the first time I have read this thread, and was wondering why noone picked up on that. Squeezer, definately leave the pv in there. They are a great thing. Especially when trying to lean out cruise. What I have been doing with mine is lowering the primary main jets while slowly increasing pvcr to supplement at WOT. I guess if it is a track only thing, and you don't mind it loading up plug it, but if you street drive it, leave it in there.

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squeeezer
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1991 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah its a 70%strip 30 %street car

and i do want good street manners


so should i just tune it for n/a ???
or tune it for a 125 shot???prolly the same???

i dont use the stuff on the street......................................as of yet

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lun40119
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you tuning with your a$$ or do you have a wideband. I have tried and tried to get it right, by reading plugs, and all that stuff, but 3hrs on a chassis dyno, cures all fella.
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clay
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
so should i just tune it for n/a ???
or tune it for a 125 shot???prolly the same???

Acutally tune it for both. I always treat them as seperate systems. Now I think once you start getting up in a really high horsepower setup, things might have to be treated differently. However in a street level setup get your n/a setup right and then nitrous can be adjusted with fuel pressure. Tha way it's the best of both worlds. Clay

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240Z8
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1972 Datsun 240Z

PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lun40119 wrote:
Are you tuning with your a$$ or do you have a wideband. I have tried and tried to get it right, by reading plugs, and all that stuff, but 3hrs on a chassis dyno, cures all fella.


Only if your weather stays close to that specific day of tuning, the conditions within the dynocell, year round. I know some of you are that lucky. For the rest of us a wideband is the only way to go, knowing what you are looking for, backed up by plug reading.

If you see any amount of street I'd keep the PV.

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