hey Paul P.

Knarley Darley · Member Joined: 22 Apr 2004 Posts: 1247 540238.26 points

Can you give some info on your engine combo? Are you still running a 406, and have you bested your 10.97@ 121. What heads, cam and compression, ect if you dont mind. Thanks

Paul P · Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:08 pm Post subject:

Hey Knarley,
Yes still running it since 1995. It is an old combination.

I have not bested the 10.97 but there is potential if I cold leave a bit harder.

The heads are ported Aluminum Dart Sportman 200's from the mid 90's. They flow around 260CFM on the intake I forget what the exhaust is. The engine horsepower is cylinder head limited. It made 535hp on the dyno and predicted flow hp number was 522. There are a lot of better heads to use these days that is for sure. Compression is 11.75:1 with 2.055/1.6 valves.
Cam is an Ultradyne .663 lift solid roller with the crower rev kit installed with crower lifters. I can post the card later.
Brodix HVH intake with Holley Pro-4 fuel injection 900CFM

It is a 6" Oliver billet rod motor with light weight 3.75 stroke crower 4340 crank. Ross forged pistons.

Car weighs in at just around 3500lbs with me in it.

Knarley Darley · Member Joined: 22 Apr 2004 Posts: 1247 540238.26 points

I was just wondering how far away from streetable you were to run that stout of a number in a heavy car. Is it still street legal?

Paul P · Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 4:05 pm Post subject:

yes all the bells and whistles for street driving. The converter is what makes it streetable. It is a TCI 251300 9" bought for 702 dollars back in the early 90's now lists for 1240 ouch.

Smoke will argue that it is not a street car because I have to feed it a bit of C12....

It is a pig with a carb on it. The fuel injection is a big help as well to making it drivable.

SMOKEmUP · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 12:16 am Post subject:

Other than a bit of octane boost required it's street car. He might even be able to run 93 octane but he hasn't tried it yet.

Knarley Darley · Member Joined: 22 Apr 2004 Posts: 1247 540238.26 points

Paul. What is your cam duration? What is your RPM range?

Paul P · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 12:09 pm Post subject:

7000 max sometimes hit 7200. See cam card. usually shift 6800

Knarley Darley · Member Joined: 22 Apr 2004 Posts: 1247 540238.26 points

Yep that is a big cam for street duty. Have the solid lifters lived this whole time? If not how often do you change them.

Paul P · Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:27 pm Post subject:

Yes they failed one time back about 2003 -2004 I think with street duty and track depending on the hours on them every 5-6 seasons. I keep an eye on the valve lash a little more closely than before to catch it before it completely fails. With the amount I drive the car now I might get 10 seasons.

Paul P

Hey guys,
I'm building a new combination and might as well sell the cam I have. It it still mint.
Asking 250 + shipping. It has the cast gear option on it too so there is no need to run a bronze distributor gear.
Cam card with specs is 3 posts up.

Paul P · Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:00 pm Post subject:

Update on the new motor setup.

The block is ok and will be .035 now so it looks like it will be a 409CID. $575 to take care of the bore, cleanup and main line hone.

The Dart 17 heads and intake are out West to an old Nascar porting guru. He did say they were under performing by 30 cfm at least. I'll have them back next week. Total damage for the intake and heads as a package was $2400. Considering that this guy charges $1500 alone for an intake I think it will be well worth the $$.

Just have to make the decision to stay normally aspirated or twins. Right now if I go twins it would mean changing everything in the car so likely I'll go with the N/A setup. Should make some serious power somewhere in the 675-725HP range. I do have the juice I can always hit it with too Twisted Evil

.

jeep_406 · Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:22 pm Post subject:

Paul,
I stopped by Golens. Paul Rinaldi did some nice work on your block. Are you going to have them dyno the engine?

Paul P · Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:09 am Post subject:

Yeah Paul is working on it which is a good thing his work is top notch.

Dyno? If I can bank roll enough maybe. Right now I'm just trying to get the cash together for the parts. The next thing is the piston selection which is easy if I am staying normally aspirated. The thing is I just read an article about wrenchrat.com and their twin turbo kits. They have complete well designed kits that bolt on and make tons of power with blow through carbs or fuel injection. The question is can the car handle this type of power in it's current state? Probably not. Rolling Eyes

Either way I likely have to replace the fuel system too which is another currently unfunded chunk of the puzzle. I do have an Innovative MTX-L wide band O2 gauge to see if the projection with a little adjustment can feed it but it is supposedly limited to 600HP so we will see.

One note about the Innovative MTX-L WB O2 gauge. I bought this for 2 applications. The first is to tune my modded daily driver 2001 Ford Focus. The analog output from the gauge works mint to data log with the SCT X3 tuner for the Focus. Once this is finished I'll install it in the Chevelle with the bungholio in the header pipe. There was one problem with the gauge. It was working perfectly but failed after 2 weeks of use and would not come out of "htr" mode during a re cal of the O2. Innovative has RMA'd the gauge and it is being looked at. Kind of sucks but it is under warranty so only costs me time and $$ for shipping.

I do have the entire top end of the old 406 that I won't be using. I might save it to top off the original never been fired 1970 GM LT1 short block that has been in a barrier bag for the last 16 years. I just have to replace all the bent valves in the heads.

clay · Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:21 am Post subject:

Glad to hear it's coming together. The wrenchrat kit looks pretty impressive and the price is right. I would like to buy just the turbo's from that kit - they appeared to be nice pieces with ceramic ball bearing centers and billet impellers. The only thing I didn't like is it appears you can't get the valve covers off with everything installed - not really a big deal if you run a hydraulic roller though. So far I wish I had gone with one - I haven't turned mine over 6500 so far but we'll see. Keep us posted - no doubt your N/A numbers will be VERY impressive if you go that route. Clay

Paul P · Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:41 pm Post subject:

I might just keep it the way it is with the stock block the N/A setup is going to work fine. If I go the wrenchrat way it might be a bit too much for the block and that would take out everything. I might stick to the N/A with a little squeeze.