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robins44
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

at 6 degrees retarted, would the engine be a dog off the bottle?
And i think i got my regulator free flowin at 5psi, is that about right? Also im running a wot switch so when i mash it from a stop it should jump right up to about 3,000 before injecting right? Or should i roll into the throttle?
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you just retarded it with the distributor, then yes. I always used a MSD Multistep retard box. That way you run what runs the best on motor and just plug in a 6* chip and there you go. Well as I can remember NOS recommends 6 p.s.i. of fuel pressure flowing. If you have been using the 3* and 5 p.s.i. and have't killed it yet, then you should have no problems with the 6* and 6 p.s.i. tuneup. Nitrous speeds up the burn rate so you have to retard timing for maximum cylinder pressure at the right time for the best output. Now all I'm telling you is about street level stuff which I know pretty well, however if you really want to load one up in a race setup, you will need to talk to pro60chevy Shocked Very Happy . Clay
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

robins44 wrote:
at 6 degrees retarted, would the engine be a dog off the bottle?
And i think i got my regulator free flowin at 5psi, is that about right? Also im running a wot switch so when i mash it from a stop it should jump right up to about 3,000 before injecting right? Or should i roll into the throttle?


what Clay said on the retard.

the fuel pressure should be checked with whatever jet you will be using. i have an extra plate fitting that i put on the end of the line, with the jet, and flow it into a bucket while setting the pressure. im running just under 6 psi. i think the NOS spec is 5 psi. BTW, the NOS jet chart is rich on the fuel side. not suggesting you immediately jet down on fuel, just keep that in mind when you start fine tuning.

if youre worried about low rpm activation, just get a rpm window switch. are you launching off idle or will you have the rpms up a little ?

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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have been retarding it at the distrbutor, will the msd retard box work with my 6al2? I want to just mash the gas and have it inject, i dont really want to mess with window switches, and delays.
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also if i remeber correctly i free flowed the fuel throw a 1/4 or 3/8 hose with a #43 holley carb jet. Right now just deadheading the pressure at the regulator says about 8psi.
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is this what your talking about?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8982&N=700+4294925143+400122+4294846029+4294891681+4294908395+4294846027+115&autoview=sku
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10sec.et
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

robins44 wrote:
i have been retarding it at the distrbutor, will the msd retard box work with my 6al2? I want to just mash the gas and have it inject, i dont really want to mess with window switches, and delays.


ok, let me rephrase my statement............. if you are using a WOT switch, you NEED a rpm window switch to deactivate the nitrous BEFORE you hit the rev limiter or bad things happen. you dont have to put a 3000 rpm pill on the low rpm side. you can put whatever you want for instant activation. hell, i have a 1* retard pill in mine. just shut off the nitrous about 200 rpm before the limiter hits.

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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would you reccomend any particular window switch?
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is turning into a mess of wires real fast.
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MufflerBearings69
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your time, run the wires neat and clean, and after I make sure all is as I want it I solder and heat shrink everything...

Just means fewer problems down the road...
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clay
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The retard will work fine with the 6AL. If you haven't bought anything yet, the Digital6 is the way to go. It has everything you need built in and is set with dials - no chips. I never ran a window switch, not a bad idea to shut nitrous off before the rev limiter, but you shouldn't be there anyway if you are a decent driver. Paul P mentioned the Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind in another thread. It is a pretty slick unit for engine protection. It has a rpm to set for starting nitrous flow, a rpm to reach full flow, a retard and a rev limiter that shuts off nitrous first. Just another idea to think about. That's the problem sometimes nowadays, there are so many options it's aggravating sometimes. The mess of wires depends on the level of protection you want. Nitrous systems can be really simple, but YOU are the only thing protecting things. The more automated things get, the more complicated it gets. Clay
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya i have the 6al2 i just purchased it, its digital, has dials, and has a built in two step which i hope to use with the nitrous so maybe the window switch isnt a bad idea. I just have a mess of wires right now as it is and am trying to clean everything up.
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

holy crap 230 dollars for window switch, thats nuts!
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robins44
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one final question, do you think retarding the 6 degrees at the dizzy would dramatically affect performance off the nitrous (say that i could feel or notice) where it makes it worth it to spend the money on the multistep retard, and if i should get the retard is the one i posted in the link a good choice?
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

6* retarded from optimum is a ton. At the track I have gained or lost 0.2 - 0.3 e.t. in the 1/8th from a 2* change. Gains of course get smaller as you get closer to where it needs to be. I'll have to look at the 6AL2 - I'm not familar with it yet. Clay
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