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please check me on my wiring

 
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:28 pm    Post subject: please check me on my wiring Reply with quote

i finished the plumbing so i sat down today and figured out how i want to wire the nitrous system. i just need another set of eyes to make sure i didnt overlook anything or wire stuff up wrong. thanks.



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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good to me, I didn't see anything obvious. One thing that has made thing easier for me is finding out that the retard chips and the rpm chips are easily interchangable. They're just resistors and you can use a rpm chip for a retard. A 6000 is very close to 6*, 8000 - 8*, etc. Saves me from having to buy chips for the retard. Are you going to run a purge solenoid? For years I didn't and just put a push button that I could bring the rpm's up and "blip" the nitrous after the burnout. It made things "sneakier" as they never really knew when I was spraying or not. Clay
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Re: please check me on my wiring Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
i finished the plumbing so i sat down today and figured out how i want to wire the nitrous system. i just need another set of eyes to make sure i didnt overlook anything or wire stuff up wrong. thanks.




Looks good!
You might want to run a purge somewere to make sure. I crack up at other techies say it won't work because #85 is ground on 1 relay and #86 is on another! Coils don't care! Laughing
Should work excellent!
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks. i have a purge but i didnt put it in the diagram because it will have its own circuit with just a push button. i dont think i need a relay for that one. is only going to be activated for a brief few seconds. im still considering a hobbs switch though.
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af2 wrote:
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
346624.78 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

clay wrote:
Looks good to me, I didn't see anything obvious. One thing that has made thing easier for me is finding out that the retard chips and the rpm chips are easily interchangable. They're just resistors and you can use a rpm chip for a retard. A 6000 is very close to 6*, 8000 - 8*, etc. Saves me from having to buy chips for the retard. Are you going to run a purge solenoid? For years I didn't and just put a push button that I could bring the rpm's up and "blip" the nitrous after the burnout. It made things "sneakier" as they never really knew when I was spraying or not. Clay


thanks for the tip on the pills Idea . that saves me from buying two sets of modules.

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yknot
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did a great job, you have to have an electrical background. I would like to see some engine and system protection. I always run a fuel pressure safety switch in series with a engine oil pressure safety switch, this way the engine is protected against activation under low oil or fuel pressure. On my more elaborate systems, I also include a N2O bottle pressure switch, to eliminate the activation under extreme high bottle pressure, which would allow the engine to run lean.

Every Electric Fuel pump vehicle should also employ a safety switch, one that would shut down the fuel pump in the advent of an accident. I run a another oil pressure switch that has three terminals, basically a 30 main terminal and then the 87 and 87(a) terminal, so you have a NC and NO side.
The fuel pump is feed from the "30" terminal and the starter sileniod is connected to the NO, and the ignition switch in connected to the NC. Now under start condition the fuel pump is temporarily energized by the starter solenoid, and as soon as the engine starts, the contacts switch places, and the fuel pump now gets feed from the ignition switch. Now the fuel pump will die when the ignition switch is turned off, or the engine dies. I link this with a Impact switch, which is in series, so under a hard impact, the switch springs open and kills the pump as well.


Good luck with your project and always be safe.



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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yknot wrote:
You did a great job, you have to have an electrical background. I would like to see some engine and system protection. I always run a fuel pressure safety switch in series with a engine oil pressure safety switch, this way the engine is protected against activation under low oil or fuel pressure. On my more elaborate systems, I also include a N2O bottle pressure switch, to eliminate the activation under extreme high bottle pressure, which would allow the engine to run lean.

Every Electric Fuel pump vehicle should also employ a safety switch, one that would shut down the fuel pump in the advent of an accident. I run a another oil pressure switch that has three terminals, basically a 30 main terminal and then the 87 and 87(a) terminal, so you have a NC and NO side.
The fuel pump is feed from the "30" terminal and the starter sileniod is connected to the NO, and the ignition switch in connected to the NC. Now under start condition the fuel pump is temporarily energized by the starter solenoid, and as soon as the engine starts, the contacts switch places, and the fuel pump now gets feed from the ignition switch. Now the fuel pump will die when the ignition switch is turned off, or the engine dies. I link this with a Impact switch, which is in series, so under a hard impact, the switch springs open and kills the pump as well.


Good luck with your project and always be safe.


thanks. fabricating and electrical are the two things i have always liked the most with cars. i agree, i need some safety devices. especially on the nitrous fuel pump because its mounted in the front. Clay put a Ford inertia switch in his (ive been waiting to see how well it works out) and im thinking i will put one in mine too.

one footnote i need to add to my diagram is that the constant power to the RPM Window Switch and Timing Retard Module will drain the battery, in about two weeks, if left sitting. i know, the battery should be disconnected if left sitting for extended periods but i still dont like any parasitic drains.

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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Clay put a Ford inertia switch in his (ive been waiting to see how well it works out) and im thinking i will put one in mine too.

So far, I have shaken the tires pretty hard, even knocked the cover off of the dome light and it has never falsely tripped the inertia switch. I can't and hope I never tell you about it's other method of operation Shocked Shocked . Clay

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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything looks good and will work as you show it. I am curious why you chose to ground the relays instead of using the relays as a power source (it works either way as it is a serial circuit) it is just the kind of thing I would expect to see on a British car is all.

You didn't grow up debugging problems with Lucas electrical systems on MG's and Triumphs (or Jags for that mater) did you?

Big Dave
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Dave wrote:
Everything looks good and will work as you show it. I am curious why you chose to ground the relays instead of using the relays as a power source (it works either way as it is a serial circuit) it is just the kind of thing I would expect to see on a British car is all.

You didn't grow up debugging problems with Lucas electrical systems on MG's and Triumphs (or Jags for that mater) did you?

Big Dave


Laughing actually, i have had my bouts with European electrical issues. due to the locations of certain components, i try to run as few wires as possible. hence the grounded relay.

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