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Burning Coolant...
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MrChukls
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Joined: 15 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:38 pm    Post subject: Burning Coolant... Reply with quote

Alright, I know this is a small block Forum, but it's a 3.0L V6 with the same cam profile as the 5.0L... Close enough, right? Anyways, the motor is burning coolant. White smoke, rough idle, hesitation throughout the power band, and all that fun jazz. Before I pull the upper & lower plenums and the heads, any ideas on what is more likely to leak? I'd like to keep the heads on it, as it's a real PITA to pull them in the car. It's a 94 3.0L Vulcan V6, cast block and heads, aluminum intake plenums. Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Mr. Chuckles

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Burning Coolant... Reply with quote

MrChukls wrote:
Alright, I know this is a small block Forum, but it's a 3.0L V6 with the same cam profile as the 5.0L... Close enough, right? Anyways, the motor is burning coolant. White smoke, rough idle, hesitation throughout the power band, and all that fun jazz. Before I pull the upper & lower plenums and the heads, any ideas on what is more likely to leak? I'd like to keep the heads on it, as it's a real PITA to pull them in the car. It's a 94 3.0L Vulcan V6, cast block and heads, aluminum intake plenums. Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Mr. Chuckles


I would think 10Sec could chime in!
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Burning Coolant... Reply with quote

MrChukls wrote:
Alright, I know this is a small block Forum, but it's a 3.0L V6 with the same cam profile as the 5.0L... Close enough, right? Anyways, the motor is burning coolant. White smoke, rough idle, hesitation throughout the power band, and all that fun jazz. Before I pull the upper & lower plenums and the heads, any ideas on what is more likely to leak? I'd like to keep the heads on it, as it's a real PITA to pull them in the car. It's a 94 3.0L Vulcan V6, cast block and heads, aluminum intake plenums. Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Mr. Chuckles


I wanted to say Sorry about you're car! I couldn't imagine me seeing that with own eyes! Shocked
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Hanz
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2003 Dodge Ram

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to break the bad news, but the Ford 3.0 heads are without a doubt the most common heads coming into our shop, always for overheating and head gasket failure. The head gaskets are trash, they 'flake apart' and if you drive it too long while it is like that, you WILL crack the heads. About 50% of the heads that come in are cracked. If you need any more info just ask... Hanz
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hanz wrote:
Sorry to break the bad news, but the Ford 3.0 heads are without a doubt the most common heads coming into our shop, always for overheating and head gasket failure. The head gaskets are trash, they 'flake apart' and if you drive it too long while it is like that, you WILL crack the heads. About 50% of the heads that come in are cracked. If you need any more info just ask... Hanz


DITTO !!! Wink

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It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep! pulled alot of 3.0 ford heads. The gaskets blew even when they didnt get over heated. It is a bad design with a water passage right next to the cylinder with just a narrow amount of gasket in between. The 3.0 Toyotas had a problem also with the deck not being flat, and cronic head gasket probs.
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MrChukls
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

K, bit of an update here.... It's definitely the head gaskets. I'm assuming the head is cracked, since I've been driving it for a while. At the very least she's warped. So..... I'm going to polish and pocket port the heads and do a competition valve job. I have a reputable machine shop doing the machine work and I'll be assembling everything. I really want to shave some off the heads (.020 - .030" would be nice) and pick up a bit of compression. Anyone know from experience what the valve-to-piston measurement is? How much can I plane off these heads before I start bending valves? I have a set of heads sitting off a motor right now, and another motor with the heads still on. I haven't "clayed" them yet, so if you guys can save me save time that'd be awesome.
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Burning Coolant... Reply with quote

MrChukls wrote:
Alright, I know this is a small block Forum, but it's a 3.0L V6 with the same cam profile as the 5.0L... Close enough, right?
Mr. Chuckles


I didn't see a sign saying it had to be a V-8; SO since Ford's better idea was to add or delete cylinders as desired I guess technically, it is a small block.

As an aside, since these things are so modular, why hasn't anyone gone after those two extra cylinders for a Mustang or what ever this motor bolts into? The Triton V-10 in my 450 pulls strong and revs surprisingly well, would think in a lighter body it could provide some fun!

Big Dave
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrChukls wrote:
I haven't "clayed" them yet, so if you guys can save me save time that'd be awesome.



no shortcuts. without claying it, its just guesswork when you start milling.

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MrChukls
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, did some digging, and it appears that decking the block or milling the heads aren't really recommended. I'll have to play with the bore and stroke to pull out some more ponies. I found a table online (http://br.share.geocities.com/picaperanger/motor.html) that lists alot of Ford motors. I find it ironic that modular was mentioned, because I noticed that the 4.6 mod motor has a bore very close to mine. My bore is 3.504, and the mod motor's is 3.552. Soo.... That really only requires a .050" over-bore on my block, then I could fit the mod motor's pistons, and doing so opens up my piston options ALOT. I also found a site (MoranaV6Racing.com) that lists a stroker kit, and 1.7 roller rockers for the Vulcans. I don't have the coin for those yet, but I think I'll take one of my spare motors and have it over-bored, line bored, and blueprinted. I'll have the inside of the block smoothed to improve the oil scavenging. Then, throw in a set of 4.6 slugs and have her balanced. I'll have the flywheel turned down to shave some weight off of it, do the head work I described and swap motors. What do you guys think? Solid or what? I guess I'll pick up 20-50 ponies... Close or wishful thinking?
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure the bore size is the ONLY difference in those pistons. wrist pin height may also be an issue.
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MrChukls
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.5354 for the Vulcan, 1.2205 for the mod motor. This is where I'll pick up some compression, since I can't mill the block or heads. I'll invest in rods that'll give me that extra bump. I want one more point of compression, that's it.
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrChukls wrote:
Well, did some digging, and it appears that decking the block or milling the heads aren't really recommended. I'll have to play with the bore and stroke to pull out some more ponies. that lists alot of Ford motors. I find it ironic that modular was mentioned, because I noticed that the 4.6 mod motor has a bore very close to mine. My bore is 3.504, and the mod motor's is 3.552. Soo.... . I also found a site (MoranaV6Racing.com) that lists a stroker kit, and 1.7 roller rockers for the Vulcans. I don't have the coin for those yet, but I think I'll take one of my spare motors and have it over-bored, line bored, and blueprinted.of the block smoothed to improve the oil scavenging. down to shave some weight off of it, do the head work I described and swap motors. What do you guys think? Solid or what? I guess I'll pick up 20-50 ponies... Close or wishful thinking?


Thank Smokey for Chevrolet!!!
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MrChukls
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have any of you guys heard of this......
I though the motor was burning coolant, so I posted the symptoms and put a gameplan together to fix the supposed problem. Now, at the time I still had the factory induction system on the car. I made up an aluminum, 3" intake with an AEM "Dryflo" filter. I modified the tube to accept the MAF sensor so it would read through the 3" tube and offer little restriction. Problem is, when I bolted her up, it ran like hell, as it was trying to dump more fuel than the injectors could handle. So, I unplugged the MAF and it idled and drove the same as with the factory intake. It still stuttered and blew smoke, and so on. Then, when really not enjoying the ride (bucking around from the hesitation), I decided to try and adjust the timing. Don't ask me why I thought it'd help, but I figured if I retarded the timing a bit it would stave off the bucking. I played with it for a bit and ended up advancing it a tad past what it already was, and now it runs mint. No smoke, no hesitation, nothing. What's up?

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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes on computer controlled vehicles, one thing you do can confuse the computer into thinking something else is happening. I don't know exaclty what happened, but on something like this, I look at it like I used a little bit out of the luck account, move on and don't ask too many questions Very Happy . Clay
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