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Started my nitrous install...
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GrandSportC3
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1968 Chevrolet Corvette

PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

William Jones wrote:
Hey grandsport it looks like you are using the same fuel pressure regulator to run your motor and your nos. That isn't a very good idea. You use fuel pressure to tune the NOS system and some times your fuel pressure for the NOS setup will be around 4 psi or lower. I know you dont run your motor fuel pressure that low I would look at getting another regulator and just putting a T or a Y before your other regulator. That would be the best way to go this will also allow you to tune your nitrous set up. Later Bam

I followed the instructions of the nitrous kit and it says that 6.5 - 7 psi should be used on the nitrous system. I'm using 6.5 - 7 psi on the engine, so I'm using the same regulator. I know that the factory suggests a very conservative tune. I won't play too much with the tuning as I only need to get 3.5 tenths from the kit and even a conservative tune will get me those 3.5 tenths to get my first 9 second timeslip. I'm not trying to get the maximum out of the setup, just 3.5 tenths.. It's safer to run fuel rich than lean.. Lean is mean! Laughing
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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pro60chevy wrote:
Wow, I totally missed that one, very good point. I don't agree with the pressure spread that Bill mentioned, unless you are running over 10lbs to your carburetor. 6 3/4 to 7lbs on the nitrous side should be a very safe starting point.

Like I said in above post.. I'm trying to be conservative and follow the suggestions that came with the kit! 6.3/4 psi will work for both, carb and nitrous... The shut off pressure will actually be 5 psi, so if the pressure drops below 5 psi, the nitrous system will shut off!
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pro60chevy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll be fine. Factory settings are normally pretty fat, which keeps you in the safe zone.
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GrandSportC3
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1968 Chevrolet Corvette

PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pro60chevy wrote:
You'll be fine. Factory settings are normally pretty fat, which keeps you in the safe zone.


Exactly, I want to be in the safe zone.. Like I said before... I only need. 3.5 tenths from the system and I'll only spray in high gear..

I should be receiving the retard system today... I'll retard by 3 degrees (33 degrees total timing) only when the nitrous is activated. I also have a window switch which I'll set up to shut off the nitrous at 6800 RPM so that I won't hit the rev limiter (at 7000) with the nitrous on..
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pro60chevy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect!! You still may want to figure a way to purge the lines before you hit it, even it it's a thru the engine purge. If you hit it down track, and the lines are full of air, the car will fall flat on it's face and defeat the purpose for having it there.
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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pro60chevy wrote:
Perfect!! You still may want to figure a way to purge the lines before you hit it, even it it's a thru the engine purge. If you hit it down track, and the lines are full of air, the car will fall flat on it's face and defeat the purpose for having it there.

I'll see how it'll act and if I don't like the results, I'll get a purge kit!
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William Jones
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run mine at about 5.2 psi for my NX kit with 150 shot. On the NOS kit I run 5.5 psi both of those are safe tunes for my cars and kits. Also remember those are flowing pressure #'s static pressure is in the 6.5 pound range I don't concern my self with static pressure to much. Just make sure your kit isn't asking for Flowing fuel pressure keep in mind this will usally be about a pound less than static pressure. So if you are going to run it that way maybe turn your pressure up a little to start. Bottle pressure will be very important when you start using it. Try to keep it at but no more than a 100 psi over the recommend bottle pressure for your kit until you get a good idea on how your tune is with the Nitrous remember the plugs are going to look cleaner than ussual look for a tan color on your first run if it is dark you are rich and way safe make sure you check it at the end of the track on the return lane. My expierence has been you burn motors up at the top end not off the line because the motor is hotter from the first part of the run and you are turning more rpms than your shift points are set at usally. Later Bam
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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

William Jones wrote:
I run mine at about 5.2 psi for my NX kit with 150 shot. On the NOS kit I run 5.5 psi both of those are safe tunes for my cars and kits. Also remember those are flowing pressure #'s static pressure is in the 6.5 pound range I don't concern my self with static pressure to much. Just make sure your kit isn't asking for Flowing fuel pressure keep in mind this will usally be about a pound less than static pressure. So if you are going to run it that way maybe turn your pressure up a little to start. Bottle pressure will be very important when you start using it. Try to keep it at but no more than a 100 psi over the recommend bottle pressure for your kit until you get a good idea on how your tune is with the Nitrous remember the plugs are going to look cleaner than ussual look for a tan color on your first run if it is dark you are rich and way safe make sure you check it at the end of the track on the return lane. My expierence has been you burn motors up at the top end not off the line because the motor is hotter from the first part of the run and you are turning more rpms than your shift points are set at usally. Later Bam

I can only set static fuel pressure as I don't have a fuel pressure gauge in the interior.. I'll usually set it close to 7 psi (6.75 psi)
I don't think that I'll run into any issues as the tune is set very conservative..
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found it easier to install a complete separate system for the nitrous. I use a twelve gallon fuel cell filled with 106 octane gas and a separate pump and return line just for the nitrous. I also use twin tanks to keep the pressure up but no bottle heater blankets (bottle heater in Central Florida?).

My worry has been leaving the bottle filled in the summer sun as the pressure in the tank climbs exponentially with heat; I worry about the bottle popping off (it has a pressure over fill plug that is supposed to prevent the tank exploding) so I only fill the tanks if I'm actually going to use them that day.

Of course there is a considerable difference in the amount of trunk space I have with a Caprice, and what you have with a 'vette, but I just think separate but equal works in the case of nitrous. You are more likely to run lean at high RPM because the fuel system is being stressed to the max supplying the demands of the motor. A separate system dedicated to keeping the engine covered under a nitrous shot is less likely to run lean and burn pistons than a single pump trying to cover both. Plus I can run lower octane for the motor for cruising and reserve the high priced spread for when I actually need it.


Big Dave
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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Dave wrote:
I found it easier to install a complete separate system for the nitrous. I use a twelve gallon fuel cell filled with 106 octane gas and a separate pump and return line just for the nitrous. I also use twin tanks to keep the pressure up but no bottle heater blankets (bottle heater in Central Florida?).

My worry has been leaving the bottle filled in the summer sun as the pressure in the tank climbs exponentially with heat; I worry about the bottle popping off (it has a pressure over fill plug that is supposed to prevent the tank exploding) so I only fill the tanks if I'm actually going to use them that day.

Of course there is a considerable difference in the amount of trunk space I have with a Caprice, and what you have with a 'vette, but I just think separate but equal works in the case of nitrous. You are more likely to run lean at high RPM because the fuel system is being stressed to the max supplying the demands of the motor. A separate system dedicated to keeping the engine covered under a nitrous shot is less likely to run lean and burn pistons than a single pump trying to cover both. Plus I can run lower octane for the motor for cruising and reserve the high priced spread for when I actually need it.


Big Dave

I'm only running a 100 shot and my fuel system is easily able to handle the fuel delivery requirements.. My pump is a 140 gph pump that delivers fuel at 14 psi to the regulator where I regulate it down to 6.75 psi.. The regulator also sits in front of the carb, so I'm not losing pressure under acceleration.. Well, I'm actually gaining pressure under acceleration... If I'd run a bigger shot, I'd run a separate fuel system but my current setup is for sure good enough for a 100 shot. My fuel lines are all #8 line from the fuel cell to the regulator.. Fuel delivery should not be an issue at all unless my fuel pump craps out..
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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the wiring today. Also hooked up the retard system..

Still need to get some brackets to route the wires etc. but I'm almost done!





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GrandSportC3
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished routing and organizing the wiring of the nitrous system and also ran a dry test. Bypassed the fuel pressure switch and tried to activate the system without being at WOT and the system didn't activate. Floored the pedal and tried again and the solenoids would activate when I pushed the button... That way I tested both, the wiring and the WOT switch. I previousely tested the fuel pressure safety switch and I know that it's working. Now I'll only have to test the retard system but I can only do that with the engine running and I don't want to run the engine in the evening.. Will do the tests that require the car to start on the weekend. I'll also add the MSD window switch when I'll be able to get a 6800 or 7200 pill for the system for the nitrous shut off before hitting the rev-limiter.
When organizing the wiring, I added some color in good old ricer style Laughing

Please note that I had to move the fuel pressure switch to the carb side as it was hitting the hood at the regulator.. Ideally, the switch should be located on the nitrous side of the regulator but there was no space. Anyways, it's unlikely that the carb side would have pressure and the nitrous side wouldn't so I'm pretty sure that I'll be ok.. I might move the pressure switch at a later point in time... If I'll decide to run a second regulator, it will be a good time to move the switch..




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disturbthepeace1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to say congrats on the install and dont worry about a thing, I dont think you fuel system will be a problem as long as your in the 100hp range.... You are running a very small anount and you have a fuel pressure switch so as long as you time it you will be in the 9's no prob......
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GrandSportC3
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1968 Chevrolet Corvette

PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

disturbthepeace1 wrote:
Just wanted to say congrats on the install and dont worry about a thing, I dont think you fuel system will be a problem as long as your in the 100hp range.... You are running a very small anount and you have a fuel pressure switch so as long as you time it you will be in the 9's no prob......


I hope so!! I tuned it exactly the way Edelbrock suggests and that's usually on the conservative side...
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so I may be confusing myself with the verbiage here, while I'm trying to read between the lines; but are you using the return line to feed your nitrous? I see a pressure regulator which belongs in the fuel line after the carb (on the distributor end of the food chain) apparently before it with what I was assuming to be the return line feeding the NOS plate fuel. Am I missing something here?

Big Dave
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