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Direct pin oiling

 
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artinla
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Joined: 09 May 2006
Posts: 233

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1971 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 8:33 am    Post subject: Direct pin oiling Reply with quote

For Nitrous, I would assume that direct oiling to the wrist pin would be a plus, if not an absolute necessity. I know that many people do this to keep the pistons cooler and provide a little extra oil to the cam lobes. This could really help someone like me using mechanical lifters. A small hole is drilled in the oil feed to the mains that sprays up against the wrist pin area.

What are your thoughts on this and what would be a good starting size to drill the passages?

Art
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Big Dave
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Joined: 04 Dec 2005
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Location: Tampa Florida
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would instead recommend that you use Crower severe duty mechanical rollers (CompCams now has a similar model) that have oil supply groves machined in the lifter body to supply oil to the tappet roller for mechanical cams used on the street (idle to part throttle). The wrist pin should get all the lubrication it needs from the hole(s) in the small end of the rod.

Mechanical roller cam applications all assume that the engine is to be used in the upper RPM band were splash lubrication from the crank will keep things wet. I think Isky "Red Line" and Crower's "Severe Duty" rollers have been developed to meet the increased demand of street cars equipped with rollers due to having to replace parts that failed under warranty. Note that the warranty only replaces the tappet and not the rest of the component parts that died due to a tappet that fell apart inside the engine.


Big Dave
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you are describing sounds like piston cooling instead of pin oiling (which would happen as a side effect). I think they call pin oiling when the piston manufacturer drills holes directly from the oil ring groove to the wrist pin area. Someone makes a solid mechanical with a EDM hole in the bottom to provide extra oil to the lifter / cam interface. If you want to increase oil to the lifter area, I have taken a stone and hone a small area down the side of the lifter to make sort of a leak I guess on the bottom half of the lifter. I got involved with trying to oil the top end of a buddies Boss 302 years ago and we had to make a small flat between the oil channel in the lifter and the oil hole going to the pushrod. It doesn't take much at all, basically as soon as you can see something with the stone, that's plenty. On a heavily loaded nitrous motor, I would imagine piston cooling would be a good idea though. Clay
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artinla
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Joined: 09 May 2006
Posts: 233

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1971 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am really more concerned with piston meltdown and detonation. I only mentioned the added oil to the cam and pins as an extra benefit of the direct oiling. Vizard describes the technique as "Direct Pin Oiling" and illustrates where the hole should be placed, but never says how big the hole should be. I am leaning toward something around .060" but would rather know what size others might be running.

Interesting lifters Dave, but $$$! One of these days I am going to take the plunge and go all roller, but cam walk, super springs and rev kits are not in the list of things Art has to worry with right now. I am still in the .500's and don't want over 260@.050 so I am safe (barely) in the dark world of mechanical lifters and carburetors for now. Stubborn (and cheap!) I guess.

I am saving all that lifter money to buy a Buick 455! Laughing
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