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383 stroker overheating!!!!
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In his situation, I don't think the lack of a thermostat is necessairly his problem. He states that it continues to heat up after he stops and idles in which case the pump should be turning slow enough that there isn't the need to restrict water flow. Even at a reasonable cruise rpm I still don't necessairly think it should be a problem but in a continous high rpm situation like circle track for instance, a restrictor plus the correct pulley ratio as rcdowns stated would be mandatory. Clay
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clay wrote:
In his situation, I don't think the lack of a thermostat is necessairly his problem. He states that it continues to heat up after he stops and idles in which case the pump should be turning slow enough that there isn't the need to restrict water flow. Even at a reasonable cruise rpm I still don't necessairly think it should be a problem but in a continous high rpm situation like circle track for instance, a restrictor plus the correct pulley ratio as rcdowns stated would be mandatory. Clay
At this point I Haven't heard from Cooley and won't give more advise.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didnt we just cover ALL of this two weeks ago for TonyD ?
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Cooleys66
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Joined: 06 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:09 pm    Post subject: I appreciate all the help guys!!!! Reply with quote

To the fellow member who questioned why i hadnt gotten back to you guys for all the help youve been trying to give me. I was away for about a week for a death in the family so you might think twice before opening your mouth in the future. Anyway, I gutted a 165 temp t-stat and stcuk it in there hoping to slow the coolant flow down so it would spend more time in the rad. drove it yesterday(82 deg. low humidity) ran 190 for about 20 min. stopped for about 10 min and let it idle. Then left again for about 10 min and it got to 208. I ordered a summit high flow mech. waterpump that will be here in about 1 week. What do you think. Oh yea my times at the track are as follows. tell me what you think. 60ft times=1.68
1/8 mile=7.71 @90.13 mph. 3600 lb car 66 chevelle
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Paul P
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah we went over this more than a few times over the years no only in this post.....
Nice times so far Cooley thumbsup
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10sec.et
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
To the fellow member who questioned why i hadnt gotten back to you guys for all the help youve been trying to give me. I was away for about a week for a death in the family so you might think twice before opening your mouth in the future

dont take it personal. people here go to great lengths to help out other members. im sure the "fellow member" has got a bit annoyed at wasting his time for people you never hear from again.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
Quote:
To the fellow member who questioned why i hadnt gotten back to you guys for all the help youve been trying to give me. I was away for about a week for a death in the family so you might think twice before opening your mouth in the future

dont take it personal. people here go to great lengths to help out other members. im sure the "fellow member" has got a bit annoyed at wasting his time for people you never hear from again.


My apologies. 10 sec is correct.
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Aerosmith
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Joined: 25 Dec 2002
Posts: 232
Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Cooley..do you have a hood scoop on the car? and btw, 208 isn't that bad.When your car was new it came with a t-stat that was 195 degrees. That meant it started opening there and ran normally around 205 or so.
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Cooleys66
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:51 pm    Post subject: Hood Scoop Reply with quote

No I do not have a hood scoop. It all original equiptment except for the
engine, rear end ect. ect. it runs its best around 180-190. thats my goal.
If i can have it stay there during any type of runing length or condition then im good to go. Apologies accepted and i didnt mean to go off the deep end. thanks for the help guys and keep it coming.
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Dave made some very good points in regards to cooling fans. i personally prefer electric fans but use dual fans on anything bigger than a six cylinder. you probably would be better off using the factory fan with a good shroud and clutch along with a 180 (non gutted) stat. if you insist on using electric fans then spend the time it takes to fabricate shrouds that pull air across the ENTIRE surface of the radiator.
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Paul P
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Location: Townsend, Mass.
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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing I recommend is running some Redline water wetter. I adds heat capacity to the coolant and will help reduce temps. Another thing that will help heat capacity also is the coolant/antifreeze mix. You want to run as much pure water as you can get away with. I use a mix that is good to -10F this has more water than a 50/50 -34F standard mix and still provides corrosion protection. I think this tip might get you down to the point you want as far as temps go. Give it a try it is cheap and it works.
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Aerosmith
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are not in their catalog, but Summit has some really nice alum fan shrouds. You have to go to the web site and search for them, but they did have them on clearance and they were like $60 around there. Definately go with a colder t-stat, and if you use an elec fan get a moroso temp switch kit they sell for their elec waterpump, it screws into the head instead of taking the temp at the radiator like some do. Taking it at the radiator delays the fan coming on by a good amount of time. I tried the water watter(red line) and it did nothing for me with regular 70/30 coolant mix, they recommend you use it with straight water for best results. If you use it with straight water you can get waterpump lube at most any autoparts store, sometimes it's called anti-rust.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im using the RedLine water wetter and distilled water in my bike and it works very well. i think too much antifreeze kills the efficiency of the water wetter.
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It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're running an aluminum after market radiator, you can run more pressure in the system. It is a fear of boiling over that keeps every one centered on a 220F redline; with more pressure, the boiling point goes up. It is the inherent weakness of the copper tubes in the radiator that keeps our pressure caps limited to 12 to 16 pounds (I run 24 pound caps). With higher pressure then 205 F doesn't seem too bad (don't forget that at 240 F the oil starts to oxidize).


Big Dave
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Rick 5150 69
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Location: Sac, Calif
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1937 Ford Business Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I he decides to run a auto switch on electric fan here is a good choice for placement, http://daytonasp.com/other/new%20products/files/new-products.shtml

Rick
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