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1957 Chevy Truck.

 
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Skunk
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 2

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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 9:01 am    Post subject: 1957 Chevy Truck. Reply with quote

I need to know what Comp Cam Hydraulic Roller to purchase for my project? I need the cam to be able to work with an A/C sytem and power brakes. THE Chevy 383 Engine that I am building will be used on a 1957 Chevy truck that consists of the following: Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.52 Rockers, Dart Iron Eagle Cast Iron Platinum Heads with 200cc runners and 72 combustion chambers, Eagle 3.75 Forged Crankshaft, Eagle 5.7 H Beam Forged Connecting Rods, Dart Kool Can Dual Intake, Speed Pro Forged Pistons 2 Relief, and it will be hooked up to a TCI Super Street Fighter Transmission. The truck weights 3200lbs and it is a frame off restoration so running a different stall and rear end is not a problem since I have made plans to purchase them new. I do want the truck to have a lopey idle by the way. Any suggestions are welcomed.
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Aerosmith
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Joined: 25 Dec 2002
Posts: 232
Location: Ohio
7771.70 points



PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Overlap gets you your dream idle. If you are dead set on a Comp Cam, the easiest thing to do would be to call them and get their recomendation. However, whether it's their rec or someone else you are at the mercy of opinion. I would suggest looking around and talking to alot of people before buying a cam. A cam can make or break you performance wise. In mt 383 I have a solid roller from a less advertised source that has served me well. My next cam will probably be my own spec but I did very well with an off the shelf grind considering it's a daily driver. Two sources I would recommend for info are books by David Vizard..How to build max performance sbc on a budget, and how to build and modify chev small block v-8 cams and valvetrains. These are very informative and written by a guy who knows his stuff.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Two sources I would recommend for info are books by David Vizard..How to build max performance sbc on a budget, and how to build and modify chev small block v-8 cams and valvetrains. These are very informative and written by a guy who knows his stuff.

I second this. Reading this and looking over the online catalogues of several different manufacturers you can do a good job of picking a cam yourself. Not that anyone here is refusing to help you - kind of the other way around, by reading, learning and picking a cam yourself you will never have to be at anyones mercy for this aspect of engine building - and that is a great feeling. Clay
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Skunk
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 2

179.88 points



PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 4:32 am    Post subject: 1957 Chevy Truck. Reply with quote

Thanxs for the feedback Aerosmith and Clay. I was thinking of eigther the Magnum or the XE line of cams from Comp Cams. Based on what I have read I could pick the 270 or 280 Magnum Hydraulic Roller or the 270 or 276 XE Hydraulic Roller. Again thanxs for the info.
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're on the right track with any of those I would guess. Now all you have to do is pick the best one out of those four which is where the books and some of your gut feelings come into play. Good luck and let us know how it runs. Clay
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Aerosmith
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Joined: 25 Dec 2002
Posts: 232
Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a couple of things I think are important that you will learn from Vizard that maybe you wouldn't from a mag article or from the tech guys..because tech guys work for the company and mags are driven by advertising..most cams are ground 2 degrees advanced to protect you from screwing up your engine. Advanced is safer than retarded because of hitting the exhaust valve on sbc. The second thing is add into your cost figures either a cam degreeing kit or atleast the main parts. A dial indicator and stand(less than $20 from Harbor freight) a degree wheel($20 from summit), light valve checking springs, a new but stock pushrod(new for straightness) and a solid lifter(or stuck used one). and degree your cam before you get everything together. You only need that stuff and the crank, cam, timing set rocker arm and 1 piston/rod/bearing assembly. I've got friends that were told by "reputable" cam companies to install thier new performance cam "straight up". Now they wonder why it has little power and no vacuum. Budget the extra $100 and have someone teach you if you don't know and you will be much less frustrated when your $500-$900 valvetrain gives you what you expected.
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