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which intake and carb
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jhyjohnson
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Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:04 pm    Post subject: which intake and carb Reply with quote

ok i got a 355 smallblock with double hump heads 2.02/1.60. 292 cam (all i know about it). got it in a 73 buick apollo full street car. got turbo 350 with 3500 stahl and 5.13 posi. ran a 9.04 with a 1.94 60ft in 1/8 last fall with a torkerII and edelbrock 650. went with edelbrock rpm air gap and 750 holley double pumper this spring and best time now is 9.15 with 1.94 60ft. been told that if i use an open 2inch spacer on the air gap it would help alot. question is should i go back to the torkerII or would the spacer make a difference. also could the 5.13 gear be hurting me by the 60ft times. was pulling a 2.02 60ft with a 3.08 gear. seems like everytime im looking for big gains i go backward
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jeep_406
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Joined: 12 Sep 2002
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Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
53123.48 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you blowing the tires off the car when you launch? That's a depressing 60 foot time with 5.13's and a 3500 stall.
What are you using for tires?
What mile per hour do you get at the end of the 1/8 mile?
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87IrocTim
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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would prefer going back to the torker II manifold. You have a very high end cam, that single plane not only will match up better with the cam, but that single plane is oging to breathe a lot better then the dual plane.
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"Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines." -Enzo Ferrari
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jhyjohnson
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Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im running mickey thompson et drag radials 275/60/15. the car feels like it launches good. can feel a little spin. mph is 71/73mph.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeep_406 wrote:
Are you blowing the tires off the car when you launch? That's a depressing 60 foot time with 5.13's and a 3500 stall.
What are you using for tires?
What mile per hour do you get at the end of the 1/8 mile?


I agree!! you're 60s are way off. I would look at other things first before throwing more $$$ at it.
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jhyjohnson
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1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no more money to throw Shocked i put 3in lift rear leaf springs with competition engineering traction bars and drag shocks front and rear. unhooked front sway bar. with the new leaf springs rear is to stiff. would removing the middle leaf help with this. could my gear be to low. im new at racing and getting so frustrated but still determined to get this car in the 8's.
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhyjohnson wrote:
no more money to throw Shocked i put 3in lift rear leaf springs with competition engineering traction bars and drag shocks front and rear. unhooked front sway bar. with the new leaf springs rear is to stiff. would removing the middle leaf help with this. could my gear be to low. im new at racing and getting so frustrated but still determined to get this car in the 8's.


Before I take leafs out I would determine what the heck is going on at the starting line and if the preload is correct on you're bars. The 5.13s are perfect for the 1/8th in you're case. You should be 1.5 or better. Is the motor laying down on launch? Then you need to see why. Tuning is a bitch but a have to do.
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jhyjohnson
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1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no motor is strong on take off pinning you back in the seat. had a buddy watch the traction bars and he said doesnt look like they are moving and cant feel them slap. how should i preload them? there is about 1 1/2in of gap between the snubbers and the front eye of the spring.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
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Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhyjohnson wrote:
no motor is strong on take off pinning you back in the seat. had a buddy watch the traction bars and he said doesnt look like they are moving and cant feel them slap. how should i preload them? there is about 1 1/2in of gap between the snubbers and the front eye of the spring.

Gap is not going to work!! You need to jack up the car push the pinion down 1/2" set the bars flush to the spring and run it. It will be stiff but do you want a Cadillac or a car that runs? After you run the car you can play with the Preload to see what is going on. You're 60' times should get better by starting there if the motor likes it.
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jhyjohnson
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1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how do i pre set the preload. excuse my ignorance but is this where i loosen the j-bolts on the axles and put a jack between the pinion and body and jack the pinion down.
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhyjohnson wrote:
how do i pre set the preload. excuse my ignorance but is this where i loosen the j-bolts on the axles and put a jack between the pinion and body and jack the pinion down.


Yes that is how to do it. If you run out of adjustment you will have to get creative to get the preload. Remember you are not ignorant if you ask questions.
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jhyjohnson
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1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ill give it a try. got to pull the tranny this weekend damn starter decided to take out my flywheel in the staging lanes sat. nite. what about the intakes and carb? what combo? i really appreciate this advice
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Paul P
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Location: Townsend, Mass.
81574.74 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2006 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear end is too stiff and too high. I lowered my Chevelle to the stock height and the car hooks much better. Most traction bars are meant to be bolted to stock ride height vehicles in general so if it is too high in the back the bar will be away from the front spring eye.

To change the pinion angle you might need a plate in between the rearend and the leaf spring. I don't believe you will gain any angle just loosening the u-bolts and jacking it down. As soon as you tighten the u-bolts it will return to the spot it was when you loosened the bolts. I think you would have better luck lowering the vehicle to stock ride height. This of course might create tire clearance problems for you but that is where it belongs.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400145+310870&autoview=sku

The link above is for shims at summit. You will have to measure what you have for angles as driveline phasing is important to get right.
There a several articles on the web mainly for the 4wd off road guys but if you look you can find some articles on drag car setups.
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5558
Location: grassvalley, ca
71227.76 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2006 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul P wrote:
The rear end is too stiff and too high. I lowered my Chevelle to the stock height and the car hooks much better. Most traction bars are meant to be bolted to stock ride height vehicles in general so if it is too high in the back the bar will be away from the front spring eye.

To change the pinion angle you might need a plate in between the rearend and the leaf spring. I don't believe you will gain any angle just loosening the u-bolts and jacking it down. As soon as you tighten the u-bolts it will return to the spot it was when you loosened the bolts. I think you would have better luck lowering the vehicle to stock ride height. This of course might create tire clearance problems for you but that is where it belongs.


Paul you are right I miss read him loosening the axles. He should us the shims under the traction bar though and not change the pinion angle. It would be pointing in the air to make up the 1 1/2" instead of inline. As far as his Intake Carb combo Jetting it would be another step in the right direction. I like the combo with the cam you have.
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jeep_406
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Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
53123.48 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2006 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't touch the engine set-up until you get the car to hook. Taking care of that problem would probably put you in the 7's in the 1/8th mile.
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