Home | Register | Login | Contact Us

 
Auto Math
Classifieds
Forum
Gallery
Games
Garage
Tech Articles
Utilites
 
FAQFAQ    SearchSearch    RegisterRegister    Log inLog in    Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages    Forum Subscriptions1/4 Mile Table 

best setup for 355 chevy
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    SMOKEmUP.com Forum Index -> Chevy - Small Block Gen 1
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 7:15 pm    Post subject: best setup for 355 chevy Reply with quote

fixn to tear down and rebuild my 355 chevy. this is wat i got now. 355 block, double hump heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, 292 cam (dont know any more about cam), 1.5 rockers, 9.5:1 compression, torkerII single plain intake, edelbrock 650 thunder avs carb with dual line kit, edelbrock performer mech fuel pump, accel billet dist with 45,000volt hei. going to bracket race this motor in a 73 buick apollo (nova) with a 5.13 pos rear. car will see some street time but not much with that gear. just want some suggestions do i need 1.6 rockers, solid cam, more carb, more compression. like to reach 500hp. thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bill jones
Member


Joined: 21 Dec 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
4414.80 points



PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-How much money do you anticipate spending on this project?
-Who's going to be doing the actual work of building this engine?
-How much of this project is going to be done by outsiders?
-When are you going to start on it and when does it have to be done?
-Who's going to be tuning the engine and making those tuning decisions?
--------------------------------------------------------
-500 honest HP is a LOT---a Lot more than you think it is---so it takes a LOT more money than most people ever thought it would.
-And it takes a certain amount of experience and ambition and patience to know how to adjust solids or rollers right.
--------------------------------------------
-I'd say you need a large enough cam and total valve lift that the pistons will need to be notched.
-I'd think the manifold and the carburetor are too small.
-the heads are are the verge of being capable of getting 500hp but they'd have to be ported pretty serious to get that 500hp.
-To make 500hp you'd likely have to run the engine near 7600rpm and that means large valve springs and the spring pockets of the double hump heads need to be enlarged and they nearly always break thru into the water jackets at the sharp corner made by the cutter.
---------------------------------------
-I feel it's a pretty big deal to actually be able to make an HONEST 500 HP out of what you have to start with so you'll be spending money on a lot of parts.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanx for the advice. i have done all the regular mechanic stuff like motor swappin, tranny swappin and the regular shade tree stuff. just lookn for guidance and suggestions on how to build this motor. not afraid to try and do anything first. might have the motor sold and now thinkn of buildn a 400 small block. any suggestions on this. have had them before and love the torqe but hate the overheating.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
96capriceMGR
Member


Joined: 23 Aug 2003
Posts: 814
Location: New London Wisconsin
20327.88 points


1996 Chevrolet Caprice

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMO look at decent heads first. The doublehumps were decent 30 years agobut 10 years ago standard production small valve heads far outflowed them not saying you have to use a production head just making a point about technology and aftermarket heads can be suprizingly reasonable these days.
Rocker selection has to match the heads and cam.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bill jones
Member


Joined: 21 Dec 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
4414.80 points



PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-old style production cast iron heads only flow about 200cfm thru a manifold and carburetor even when ported decent and you can only get about 2hp per cfm so the old heads are going to limit you to around 400HP no matter what you have under them for a shortblock.
---------------------------------------------
-you'd have to get into some 215 to 222CC port volumes like Brodix track 1's or Dart 220's and then you'd need something like a modern Victor manifold---maybe an old Holley 300-25---and probably at the least a 750 double pumper or maybe even a 780 vacuum secondary Holley---and then a 2" tall flared 4 hole carb spacer to be able to get enough air to the cylinders.
-These heads when ported decent along with a modern manifold and about 800 cfm of carburtetor will flow about 250CFM thru the "intake system" when all the components are flowed at the same time---so that makes the 500HP number a truly realistic number.
----------------------------------------------
-Once you got the top end then the rest is pretty easy as all you have to do is build the valve train to run 8000rpm.
-Once you get the valve train figured out then the oiling system is next.
------------------------------------------------
-After you are satisfied that your cam won't won't go flat (if you use a solid lifter cam) and that your oil pressure idiot light will not come on during a run thenb you can work on the short block.
-----------------------------------------------------------
-If you were to run a 327 you could still make 500HP but you'd have to twist the engine closer to 8000 to get it where a 30 over 350 you should be able to have a happy 500hp combination at about 7600.
----------------------------------------------------------
-The 400 can do it but the cost to do a production based 400 block RIGHT is about half again whatever money and time you'd spend on a 350 because of having to eliminate the external balance---and then the main caps and the main webs are pretty frail unless you do the splayed caps and cap straps for the front and rear main caps.
---------------------------------------------------
-A solid lifter cam and 8000rpm means that you'd need to be real particular about the break-in procedure---have to use light springs for the first couple of days---then install the real race springs.
-But solid lifter cams are pretty limited on lobe lift so you'd need some 1.65 or 1.75 ratio rockers (on the intake)----usually these have the trunnion hole drilled to offset within the rocker body to get the big ratios.
--------------------------------------------------
-Getting a solid lifter cam to live---not go flat---with 8000rpm worth of valve spring and hi ratio rockers requires diligent effort during the break-in.
-------------------------------------------------------
-I wouldn't worry much of any about rocker ratios on the exhaust as I've never seen any big power gains with high ratio exhaust---EVER.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

think my head hurts now. so maybe just do a head upgrade carb and intake. thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
87calais
Member


Joined: 19 Apr 2003
Posts: 206

5692.14 points



PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

and all those words are why forced induction sounds so good... don't have to rev so high
_________________
88 SS Monte Carlo, nowhere near stock
'04 Silverado =)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
jeep_406
Member


Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1661
Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
53123.48 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhyjohnson,

Just how fast do you want to make your bracket racer? ET, MPH?

Do you know what the car weighs with you in it?

Are you going to run 1/8th or 1/4 mile?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

full street car guessin weighs about 3800lbs. runnin 1/8 mile. like to get in the mid 8's
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
clay
Moderator


Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're pretty close on the weight, but it should actually be a bit lighter than that, I would guess 3600ish with driver. Mine is a tad over 3800 with a 8 point roll bar, air conditioning and 140 lbs ballast in the trunk. To run mid 8's you don't need 500 h.p. I had a basic 355 to run low 8's and an occasional high 7. Nothing special or exotic. TRW flat tops with 9.5 - 1. 64cc Sportsman II heads (Vortecs are a much better deal now), small mechanical cam, Victor Jr. intake, 750 vacuum secondary carb, TH350 with TCI Street Fighter, 4.11 rear, factory monoleafs and shocks with slicks. This was before roll bar and with no ballast and full interior so it should be very close to what you have now. Just cover the basics and you should be fine. Clay
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know that this motor has more power just trying to get it out. thinkn the 650 edelbrock and the torkerII intake holding me back and the weak rear suspension. goin to figure this out by spring
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
richmc
Newbie


Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 1
Location: NC
131.18 points



PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you thought about building the motor as a 383? Use a 3.75" stroke aftermarket crank. There's no replacement for displacement....

Ditto on the heads...aftermarket is definitely the way to go. Picked up .15 seconds and almost 5 mph from a head swap. Double humps are for restos and super stockers.

_________________
RichMc
1980 RX-7/306 Ford-5 speed
1991 Lincoln MK VII LSC-SE
1958 Ranchero
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jeep_406
Member


Joined: 12 Sep 2002
Posts: 1661
Location: Tewksbury, Mass 01876
53123.48 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Clay. You don't need a lot of engine to run high 7's in the 1/8th. What you do need is to get the car to hook up off the line. I use a set of BFG drag radials and get low to mid 1.6 60 foot times with a set of traction bars that have been extended to the spring perch. The car is all steel except for the hood and like Clay, I have a working AC set-up.

I'll PM you if you like with the info on what I have in my car. It's really quite mild.

Can you get any traction with the 5.13 gears? That is a lot of gear for a street car unless you have pretty tall tires on it. Around here the tracks are all 1/4 mile except for one way up in Maine. I don't think I could make it to the end of the track with that much gear and still have all the pieces I started with still intact.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
jhyjohnson
Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Posts: 129

4780.54 points


1973 Buick Apollo

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

think i need traction bars have some wheel hop. only gettin 1.94 60ft times. only got 1/8th mile tracks around here. with the 5.13's turnin about 5000rpm at the finish line. think if i get the suspension figured out i can get the time down. new to drag racin just tryin to figure this out. would like to hear ur set up.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
96capriceMGR
Member


Joined: 23 Aug 2003
Posts: 814
Location: New London Wisconsin
20327.88 points


1996 Chevrolet Caprice

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://smokemup.com/bb/garage.php?mode=quartermile
I am number 13 on that list 8.3 1/8th mile times in good weather car is about 4300lbs with me in "race" trim which means stock front rims and slicks on steel rims in back with an empty trunk. The Vortec heads are based very directly on my stock iron LT1 heads and I run a little ZZ3 crate motor cam which is just 208/221 at .050 and is a hydraulic roller, my engine management and revese flow cooling allow 10:1 compression STOCK on 87 octane. Running 2800 stall 9.5" converter in front of a rebuilt 4L60E (think 700R4 only computer controlled) and mild 3.42s out back, the slicks are too tall at 28" but the 1.8 60s tell me they aren't hurting me too bad. Your goal seems modest enoughm to be reliably and cheaply enough accomplished.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    SMOKEmUP.com Forum Index -> Chevy - Small Block Gen 1 All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
Home | Contact Us | Automath | Cam Files | Dyno Search | Forum | Garage | Picture Gallery | Reaction Timer

Copyright 1997-2016 SMOKEmUP.com All rights reserved.
Advertising Info     Disclaimer     Privacy Policy