408 Fuel System

10sec.et · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject:

ive had similar experiences with the Summit fittings. they are REALLY soft. i think ill spend the extra $$ from now on. we use the Russel and Earls fittings at work. they are a better grade aluminum.

Paul P · Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:00 am Post subject:

Hi Dave,
Thanks I'll take a look! The plug came out mostly without thread damage. It was just a matter of a turn or two deeper with the pipe tap to clean it up. There were some pieces hanging around inside the Y-block that I removed with a file before cleaning it out. The brass plug was really the way to go with no galling of the aluminum. Plus I installed it with some liquid Teflon. That stuff worked perfectly for this application plugging all the pores if there were any and it held 100psi! I could not imagine a heli-coil pipe plug insert not sure there is such a thing. Happy Easter to All!
Paul

af2 · Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:42 pm Post subject:

Paul P · Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:58 pm Post subject:

Yeah there is a summit timing cover that I milled off the Summit Racing because it was such a POS. I hear ya on some of the Summit stuff. It hasn't always been that good over the years.

I did get it running. Paper intake gasket did leak and need to be re-tightened to get it to stop. Set the timing and got it to stay running when the fans kicked in. Still cannot put it in gear. Have to make custom settings for that which is next. The fact that it is running is a big step.

10sec.et · Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:13 pm Post subject:

glad to hear it finally runs Cool

its going to take some time to dial in the tune. especially for the first time tuning this system. dont forget to do the TPS Autolearn every time you make throttle blade adjustments. i dont try for the IAC counts that Holley recommends. i just shoot for some control. if i can get counts around 10-15 at idle, im happy. be advised, there is a wiring/idle control motor issue on some. some come wired for a GM IAC but have a Chrysler IAC on it. its just a matter of repinning the connector. look for this if it refuses to properly control idle. hopefully, by now, they have that issue resolved.

Paul P · Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject:

Yeah TPS relearn and IAC position are good.

Got it to idle in gear after turning off learning for 1500 and below. I was able to drive it and let it learn some loaded conditions. Drove a bit strangely at first now it goes like stink! Idle and cold start are really where all the work is.

It is idling at 1200rpm at the moment which is a little high. I will probably will lower the idle to 1000 now that it works at 1200 with the usual TPS relearn after it is warmed up.
Cool fans kicking on surely did cause some issues with the idle which now that the IAC has enough range above idle it can handle it.

Paul

Paul P · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 7:00 pm Post subject:

Been tuning it for a bit. it starts and idles ok cold and hot which was a chore since it looks to be pulling about 8 inches of vacuum at an idle. Fuel leaks are now plaguing me Rolling Eyes

. Fittings on the hose ends connecting to the end connectors on the rails are pissing fuel. Tried tightening them at a friends house and it just got worse. Not going to mess with it tonight. Looked at the data logs and the AFR is all over the place at cruise rpms as expected and the afr up to about 5k seems to be sort of stable a bit choppy but it think learning is still in progress. Of course this is not under a steady load accelerating the car on the street is hard because of space limits and speed limits. Twisted Evil

10sec.et · Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:04 pm Post subject:

go ahead and do your learn transfer. ill do that a couple times early on. if its correcting a lot, make manual changes in the main table. you can use the learn table as live data and watch it while driving. preferably while someone else drives. i tuned a boosted car like that today. a few quick hits and i got the main table really close. still have some fine tuning to do but its coming around pretty quick.

Paul P · Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 7:54 am Post subject:

I have some of my valve springs kissing the valve cover. Pulled it last night and need to just remove a tiny amount of metal from it to keep it quiet. Sounds like piston slap up top. not sure why but likely just the way the cover sits on the head. Just the back 4 on the drivers side and maybe some on the passenger side but the sound of it is much less. Transferring the table should be done after the tune is mostly complete at least according to the manual because of smoothing? The learn table is smoothed actively and if it is transferred it has to be manually smoothed. At least that is what they claim.

PS. I have 2 summit 10% off codes good til the end of April. If someone is interested send me PM.

10sec.et · Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject:

thats what they tell you but that takes forever. they used to also say you could only do it once. my guess is it was an engineer that told them to put that in the instructions. in the real world, things are a bit different. i will often do the transfer once before ever driving. when you do it, it will ask you if you want it to smooth. click yes.

Paul P · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 12:00 pm Post subject:

Got the factory cowl induction seal on the air pan. Running strong have to get to the dyno to tune it.

af2 · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 7:38 pm Post subject:

Very flippen nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Glad it is coming along good. Keith is pretty damn sharp on the EFI.

Paul P · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 8:43 am Post subject:

I think the same issue I had with the MSD tach output with the Pro-Jection is a problem. I pulled the MSD 8920 tach adapter out thinking the Holley ECU would work without it. NOT. Put it back in the car for the 3rd time. Yes 3 times... I think the result will be positive though. Until I get DIS (crank trigger, cam sensor and coils) this will have to do.

The other thing that is on the table is a dyno session. I do plan on changing fuel to an VP unleaded to not eat O2 sensors which will tune differently. I guess 2 questions here.

Should I just tune it on leaded and lock it letting the O2 go when it goes and just replace it?

Or go to unleaded and run it without worrying about the sensor getting coated/junked?

Big Dave · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 8:51 pm Post subject:

I have no idea what effect lead would have on the oxygen sensor. Keith probably knows. My question is can't you use unleaded VP? I believe they have unleaded fuel with an octane as high as 104 (one better than American White unleaded pump gas sold back in the sixties and seventies.

Never could figure out why AMOCO stopped making American White as unleaded was required by law for 1978 and they had the only unleaded high octane gas that sold for the same price at the pump as Sunoco 260 (which was dyed blue) did.

Big Dave

Paul P · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 9:04 pm Post subject:

Hi Dave,
Lead slowly coats the sensor and my Innovate MTXL has been coated to death a few times. If it wasn't for the replacement cost of the Holley calibrated Bosch at $140 or the NTK at $240 I would stay with the leaded fuel.

I did say I plan on using VP unleaded in my post.

MotorSport 109 is an oxygenated fuel so the tune will be different.

Unleaded Extreme is the other that isn't oxygenated.