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overheating
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good to see you posting again.

i did try taking out the inner fender wells. helped some but not enough. i didnt try removing the hood because the owner is not going to take delivery of this car without a hood or any modifications to the hood. i have to find another way. right now im waiting on a bigger radiator/fan assembly. we will see how that works out hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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JavaJeep-INDONESIA
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 69
Location: Jakarta , Java , Indonesia
2665.12 points


1944 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I meant was to remove the hood for a test drive only and see if the overheating problem is still there , then you can eliminate lack of air flow under the hood as one of the potential problems
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Tony Gurney
Java, Indonesia

1944/46 MB/CJ2a FrankenJeep F-134 waterproofed HS6 SU carb MSD5 ignition, T90 + Warn overdrive, D18, D25 Lock Right , D44 Detroit Locker , 32"x15" Simex Extreme Trekkers , Warn 8274, full jungle fit out

Now getting a 350 Chev and a unique suspension set up using Boeing 727 undercarriage components
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Big Dave
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Location: Tampa Florida
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to watch out for a short circuit of sorts. You want all of the air to flow through the radiator, and not over the top of it. With the hood off the radiator is a big air dam that air might just over flow if allowed to. I agree in the concept of trying to increase air flow.

I would try a chin spoiler under the car to force air through the radiator opening and possibly a hand made air dam on top of the radiator core support to channel all of the air through the fan so air can't by pass the radiator. Most modern cars with slits for grills use a deep wide air spoiler to force all of the air that would flow under the car to go through the radiator (at least until the wife drives the car and knocks it off while parking by ear).
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JavaJeep-INDONESIA
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 69
Location: Jakarta , Java , Indonesia
2665.12 points


1944 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thought , is there a restriction in the exhaust system ? I had a 5 litre compact which with the factory exhaust was on the verge of overheating regularly , I switched to headers and a free-er flowing exhaust and the overheating problem was solved.

Other thoughts , does the temp go down when you put the pax compartment heater on ? acting as a second radiator

Also is the car already running an oil cooler ?

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Tony Gurney
Java, Indonesia

1944/46 MB/CJ2a FrankenJeep F-134 waterproofed HS6 SU carb MSD5 ignition, T90 + Warn overdrive, D18, D25 Lock Right , D44 Detroit Locker , 32"x15" Simex Extreme Trekkers , Warn 8274, full jungle fit out

Now getting a 350 Chev and a unique suspension set up using Boeing 727 undercarriage components
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Paul P
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Joined: 15 Aug 2002
Posts: 2404
Location: Townsend, Mass.
81616.60 points


1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JavaJeep-INDONESIA wrote:
Another thought , is there a restriction in the exhaust system ? I had a 5 litre compact which with the factory exhaust was on the verge of overheating regularly , I switched to headers and a free-er flowing exhaust and the overheating problem was solved.

Other thoughts , does the temp go down when you put the pax compartment heater on ? acting as a second radiator

Also is the car already running an oil cooler ?


JavaJeep might be on to something.

The combustion heat is divided into 3 parts.

1/3 the heat converted to power
1/3 the heat is absorbed by the cooling system
1/3 the heat is let out through the exhaust system

There is a heat component to the exhaust.

Does it over heat with open headers?


What about lines like I am working on for my 406?
Running from the rear of the engine to the front to even out the coolant flow through the heads and block?

Just thinking out of the box.

Paul

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2001 Focus 2.0 Zetec
stock cams, bolt-ons and tune
15.63@87 MPH 1/4mi

1971 - Chevelle 408 SBC N/A
6.86@102.5 MPH 1/8mi
10.78@122 MPH 1/4mi
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JavaJeep-INDONESIA
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
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Location: Jakarta , Java , Indonesia
2665.12 points


1944 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave , I just took a look at the Dooley + Sons web page , a nice shop and some very nice projects

That Hemi sure fills up the engine bay on the Willys !

How's it going ? Problem solved ?

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Tony Gurney
Java, Indonesia

1944/46 MB/CJ2a FrankenJeep F-134 waterproofed HS6 SU carb MSD5 ignition, T90 + Warn overdrive, D18, D25 Lock Right , D44 Detroit Locker , 32"x15" Simex Extreme Trekkers , Warn 8274, full jungle fit out

Now getting a 350 Chev and a unique suspension set up using Boeing 727 undercarriage components
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3473
Location: Houston,Texas
346658.74 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we are working on putting more radiator and fan in it right now. thanks for the suggestions. exhaust is not a problem as far as restriction goes. if anything its too big (2 1/2" primaries and 3" exhaust with Borla mufflers). it has a "chin spoiler" and that didnt help. although, im going to get a nicer looking one made and keep one on the car. the heater didnt help either. i do think an oil cooler is a good idea even if it doesnt really help with the overheating. so far, the only significant difference was when we put my carb on it (its jetted about 8 sizes bigger) and locked the timing at 33.
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not a big proponent of electric fans as you may recall. However electric fans are ideal for auxiliary coolers such as for the transmission and the motor oil. You can rig them to hide under the car and still have enough air flow to work very well with a fan on top blowing down so long as you have three inches above the fan to the top of the floor boards.

Gets them out of sight and cleans up the engine comparment and the heat doesn't add to the anbient air temp going through the radiator when trying to cool off a high horse motor.

Big Dave
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af2
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Location: grassvalley, ca
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: overheating Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
we have a Willis at work that we just cant seem to get to stay cool. its a new engine. 430 (ish) cubic inch Hemi. it dynoed at 650 HP at the flywheel. it has a factory water pump with a V-belt. timing is 10 to 14 base (sorry i dont remember exactly where i put it the last time). radiator is aluminum and supposed to be good for 800 HP. it has dual electric fans. any other details i left out please ask.

it runs at about 210-220 when driving. get it down to low speeds (such as stop & go traffic) it gets over 230. once its hot it doesnt want to cool down. if you keep driving it on the highway, it never really goes past 220. i took the thermostat out and you can guess what effect that had. tried letting it idle with the hood open, thinking maybe it wasnt flowing enough air through that tiny engine compartment, and its still hot. even tried driving with the heater on and it made no difference. belt doesnt seem to be slipping but we are thinking of trying a Mizere (sp) electric water pump. the thought did cross my mind that that radiator just is not getting the job done. problem is that theres no room for anything physically bigger. any thoughts or suggestions ?


Back to the start.

Dual fans were and are designed for how much HP the car has?

Still thinking. smoking
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JavaJeep-INDONESIA
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 69
Location: Jakarta , Java , Indonesia
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1944 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may have to run some industrial style additional radiators or just heat exchangers somewhere else in or under the car , that's a lot of engine with not much space and airflow for a radiator.

Does it still overheat eventually with the richer jetted carb ?

Also perhaps some extraction fans blowing down to the ground at the back of the engine bay ? Getting the hot air from the headers out of the engine bay as quickly as possible and helping the radiator cooling fans.

Water injection ? That can cool the intake charge down which may help a little bit

I can't think of anything else at the moment , you've pretty well explored most solutions

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Tony Gurney
Java, Indonesia

1944/46 MB/CJ2a FrankenJeep F-134 waterproofed HS6 SU carb MSD5 ignition, T90 + Warn overdrive, D18, D25 Lock Right , D44 Detroit Locker , 32"x15" Simex Extreme Trekkers , Warn 8274, full jungle fit out

Now getting a 350 Chev and a unique suspension set up using Boeing 727 undercarriage components
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