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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova
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 Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | I would think retorque would risk breaking the seal loose on the studs where they go into the block and cause a coolant leak. |
One method I use that gets you most of the benefit of the retorque is a cold retorque. You can put something like PST sealer made by Loctite I believe or the teflon sealer that ARP sells on the bolts or studs and torque them down on the stand. Wait overnight and then loosen and retorque the next day. If you mark the fasteners you will see they will tighten farther as the gaskets get compressed. This way there isn't really time for the sealer to set up and there isn't any coolant or water there yet either. Permatex also makes a non hardening sealer that I have used on the bolts too. I still retorque hot also, but the above method will get you I would guess 80% of the retorque benefit if you really don't want to do a after heat cycle retorque. Clay
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William Jones
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Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 823
Location: Lake city, FL
28541.86 points
1971 Ford Mustang
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| Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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You have to retorque when using aluminum heads its even more important then when using iron I always do. When I put this last motor together it milked my oil I retorqued and no problems since and I am running 15:1 comp. Try retorguing your heads and maybe you can stop the leak.
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