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Bocephus027
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 126

4536.20 points


1972 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 10:47 pm    Post subject: Stuck between Reply with quote

I really can't decide wether to build my car for the track, or convert to a circuit track type car.

I definantly want it to always be a daily driver, and someday just a sunday driver. Is it possible to have a suspension system that is setup for both circuit and the 1/4th, or is it basically they same principles you want to follow for suspension?

If so what are some suggestions on what to upgrade to in this area.
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William Jones
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Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 823
Location: Lake city, FL
28541.86 points


1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Bo check out www.darkhorseracing.net they have a road race car in our body style. That is were I got my fiberglass hood from. Later Bam
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Big Dave
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Joined: 04 Dec 2005
Posts: 2646
Location: Tampa Florida
119973.02 points



PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You just think drag racing is an expensive hobby. Compared to competition level SCCA road racing we are all rank amateurs.

We all salivate over exotic aluminum blocks and wish we could afford one. Well in road racing that is the base engine block, it isn't exotic, every one has two or three in their air conditioned semi-trailer being polished by the chauffeur. Fuel injection isn't something that is debated as being better than carburetors. You can not hope to run without your cam controlled direct injection Bosch fuel injectors squirting directly into your billet heads, all installed in hand worked aluminum coaches, resting on chromemoly tube framed chassis; with numbers on the "bonnet" proclaiming thousands of horse power out of your five liter V-12 mill.

Getting back to planet earth, and away from the jet set that road race. A car set up for straight line performance is going to plow through the first turn (whether marked by rubber cones on a Saturday parking lot auto-cross or at Watkins Glenn, NY.) Conversely a car with arm thick diameter sway bars and rock hard gas filled Bilsteins isn't going to do anything but go up in a cloud of smoke at the drags.

I used to own a Baldwin Motion L-88 powered '68 Camaro. It had a Yenko block 427 cid engine built by Don Yenko's shop to crank out over 650 ponies at 7,600 RPM and I was running 5.13 rear gears to keep it in that range in the quarter mile. I had a friend who auto-crossed Corvairs and who owned and raced a 140HP Corvair power go cart running on 12" dia. Midget Sprint car wheels and race tires. I let him drive my Camaro in a SCCA sponsored auto-cross, and he let me drive his cart on the same course. I took out as many cones as he did due to my aggressive and grossly inexperienced driving style. He had tons of fun going through the course sideways with smoke billowing out off the rear hides for two solid minutes of 8,000 RPM flogging. (Actually we may have invented drifting that afternoon for all I know. It was newsworthy enough to make the local six-o-clock news. Because the local sports car club chapter made up of the rich and famous around town had invited the news media to attend).

You have to pick your field of combat and gird yourself for your opponent.


Big Dave
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Bocephus027
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Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 126

4536.20 points


1972 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, sounds pretty damn serious to get into that, I may goto the cicuit track and pay to run a few laps to just see what its like before I go spend a few K on a few mods out of the bunch that I will need.
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cobblemaster
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Joined: 07 Feb 2004
Posts: 97
Location: Delmarva Peninsula
1528.60 points



PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave is talking about the top dogs of road racing.
You can start out as cheap as you want. There are spec classes, improved touring, and plenty of others. SCCA is amateur racing.

On setup, you can build a car that is adaptable to do either, but it won't be the top car for either.
You can get single adjusts for the front, so you can crank up the rebound damping for road work. On the rear, you can have 2 sets of shocks. Same for springs. They are cheap, and easy to swap.
For road racing you want a balance between forward bite and lack of squat on braking, so the rear is set up neutral. An ajustable 5-link can work for both drag and turns.
I could go on, but yo uneed to make a decision, and go from there. Please ask if you need help, I can shoot you my cell phone number.

Mike Perry

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