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Proven Combo....Seems slow
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RaG
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Joined: 20 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds like a plan. (as far as the timing issue) Turn the dist counter clock wise to advance right?

Sometimes it turns over slow after its up to temp, fires up within a second or two though. But that could be my old alternator or simply the heat from the headers affecting the high mileage stock starter. But it fires right up with a squirt of gas cold.

I work for Comp Cams, I have a guy up there who also works for Comp and owns a shop, I think i'm let him keep it overnight and tune it. (he assembles engines and test parts)

I wish i had got the 2 piece timing cover like i started too, then checking the cam advance wouldn't be a issue.

Yea there are dozens of articles on my buildup. I haven't read an article with the 355, Vortec heads, rpm airgap, XE 268, made below 380hp.

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Type/Chevrolet/CC_CHP0401-001.asp
And that one has 8.7:1 compression i believe. Mine is around 10.1:1
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jeep_406
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your buddy at Comp Cam will give you some time, that's probably a good thing. He might go right to the problem with his background. One thing he will ask is if you are sure it's got the right balancer on it. Of course the Machine shop should have checked that out for you during assembly. We usually check the balancer right after we degree the cam in.

I've seen the wrong balancer on a small block chevy enough times to suggest you pull plug #1 and turn the engine over BY HAND until #1 piston is at top Dead Center and see where the pointer sits. Stick a piece of clothes hanger in cylinder #1 and watch until it comes up as far as it will go. This is a quickie and will bring you close to TDC. If you have the wrong balancer it will show big time. Make sure you have disconnected the power to ignition so that you don't hurt yourself. If the balancer is wrong the engine will run but it will be a big time dog.

If the carb ran well on the other engine I doubt the problem is there unless you have a vacuum leak. The smaller CFM carb wouldn't show up until the upper RPM range.
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RaG
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i bought all the parts seperate so I'm positive I have the correct balancer for my 350. Went from me buying it, then to the machine shop to be balanced, then to my engine builder. I'm sure if the wrong balancer was circulating around, someone would have noticed it. ?
Could it have been installed im properly? I have another keyway 180* from the stock one. (was planning for a small 144 blower initially)

I outta check with the hanger deal, but its so hard to turn the motor by hand, and the starter turns way to fast for me to risk doing so with a bent hanger in the #1 cylinder.

Id have to get under the car and work with the flywheel. Seems like the ole 454 i had turned easier than this motor. The 355 has 10.1:1 tho, i could mangle the 454 by the crank pulley.
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Hanz
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2003 Dodge Ram

PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RaG wrote:

I outta check with the hanger deal, but its so hard to turn the motor by hand, and the starter turns way to fast for me to risk doing so with a bent hanger in the #1 cylinder.

Id have to get under the car and work with the flywheel. Seems like the ole 454 i had turned easier than this motor. The 355 has 10.1:1 tho, i could mangle the 454 by the crank pulley.


Pull the plugs out... Exclamation

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RaG wrote:

I outta check with the hanger deal, but its so hard to turn the motor by hand, and the starter turns way to fast for me to risk doing so with a bent hanger in the #1 cylinder.


Take all the plugs out. It should turn over much easier.
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RaG
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2003 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hanz wrote:

That's why I said that sometimes timing by 'feel' is an option.

Keep advancing it until it is hard to start, in other words the starter can just barely crank it. Then go back a very little, until it will crank. Go for a ride!


Did that after changing the oil, which took me over 8 hrs, man did it help. I feel i need to turn it up more but it gets hard to start. Would a high torque starter help with more advance? 10.1:1 compression.

Idles in gear very well, seemed to cure the carb problems also. I emailed holley, they said with my size cam, i should not have to change anything from the stock 4160 carb, and just recommended checking the vacuum and see if the standard 6.5 powervalve was the optimal size.
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Hanz
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2003 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RaG wrote:

Did that after changing the oil, which took me over 8 hrs, man did it help. I feel i need to turn it up more but it gets hard to start. Would a high torque starter help with more advance? 10.1:1 compression.



Glad things are looking better-
By high torque starter, do you mean a GM high torque? Yes that's what you should have if you don't, it has the extra length on it, where the diameter narrows down a little. Make sure you have the front brace on it that goes to the block. You don't need an expensive aftermarket starter for this car. BUT make sure your starter is good and not drawing too much, the bAttery is good, (start it with the headlights on and make sure they don't dim too much) and the cables, clamps, and ground is good.

If your headers are right next to the starter, fabricate a heat shield from sheet aluminum. I recently saw them for sale somewhere, can't remember where, maybe Speedway Motors.

If there is still a little low end hesitation, think about advancing your cam 4 degrees. Hanz

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ScotRod
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running a very similar engine in my Truck, '70 F100, and experiancing very similar problems. My engine is a 351W, Preformer RPM air gap, Comp 268, Ford Iron heads with stock valves and Port and polish int. and exh. about 9.2:1 compression, MSD pro billet distributor, MSD 6al controller, Headers, and a 650 road deamon. I am currently running 8 degrees initial advance. A mechanic gave me shit for running about 16 degrees advance, which is what I got when I tried the advance the spark untill it is hard to turn over and backed it off a bit, but I swear I was getting way better power. i have tried a variety of jet sizes, ranging from 75/ 82 down to 64/71 with little or no gain over a 13mpg fuel economy.I also have trouble with idle being rough, and a hesitation at about 2200 RPM. I am thinking I need a power valve that starts in sooner. I did get a little releif by switching my vaccume secondary spring to a lighter one, which I plan to do again. I am interested in this idea of advancing the cam timing about 4 degrees. I have a vaccume gauge hooked up to my truck full time and I am running about 15 in Hg at light loadand I have noticed that the stumble will fade and it will run better as the power valve seems to kick in, and then it will accelerate hard.
I am curious to know what jet sizes you are running.
I have little doubt that this engine can make 350 hp, and 400+ ft pounds of torque, but it needs tweaking.
Best of luck
Scott
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mike jordan
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:15 pm    Post subject: low on power??? Reply with quote

Would just like to ad to the timing of your engine, I would turn the dist. to where the engine starts its best (cranking and firing up) tighten it down. I would then see at what RPM it starts to advance. I would play with the springs and plate to start geting the timing to come ALL IN sooner, may even need to buy a curve kit, to get the right springs. I would stay around 32-34 total, you will have to move your plate to keep your total from changing on ya. I would experiment with diffrent comb. of springs, after each change go for a drive. You do not need to be cocerned about your inital timing, Just reset your dist. to where it starts good. A timing light with an advance nob on it will really help.

I had the same problem with my sbc. I found mine runs alot better with the timing at 22 inital -- 34 total -- all in by 2200 rpm. Going from 3200 to 2200 may not seem like alot but it will make a world of diffrence. As far as your inital goes, as long as it is not to hard on your starter you will be ok. Your timing in your plate and how fast or slow it comes in can hide alot of HP. Hope this helps, good luck.
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cutlass389
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This might be ignorant but have you really checked diligently for a vacuum leak?
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66burban
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my friend has a 355 with that cam, with ported 305 heads that still have the 1.84 valves in them, and a quadrajet. His car dynoed at 296hp at the wheels which comes out to about 370 at the flywheel. He has a stock short block other than being .030 over, some cheap headers, and a torquer intake, it will idle at 700rpm. He had that engine in his pickup at first and did not need a stall, it did not die at idle. So yes hanz, I would believe 400 hp with vortec heads. He is running 36* total advance and I believe that cam has a 4* advance ground into it when installed straight up.
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af2
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some how you need to check the total advance! I am running a 331 at 34 degrees total with pretty much the same set up including a stock stall and have no problems with starting. The motor is very strong and has no hesitation. My feeling with Vortec heads is the advance will be lower because of the combustion chamber design and the distributor needs to be curved to the motor to accomodate. I am running 6 degrees initial just to let you know. Adam
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